One Year Ago: an Easy 28 km Walk
(from my journal)
Logroño
Divine Mercy Sunday / 6PM
Today I walked 28 km. From Los Arcos it was a delightfully easy 7 km to Sansol. Onward, we walked over easy roads through olive trees and vineyards, culminating in a steep, undulating descent.
Mostly walked with Patrick from Florida. His wife died two years ago, and she made him promise that he’d use the life insurance money for “something fun”. He saw the movie “The Way” and knew what he had to do. He’s only planning to walk as far as Burgos due to limited vacation time, but he plans on returning.
Also walked a little with Kristof. He wants to come back and walk the Camino with one of his daughters. He’s been very much absent as a parent, as his business frequently takes him away. He once bought her a sailboat, but he’s only been out with her sailing once. As we spoke, we cried unashamedly.
Our little group (little! perhaps 8 now?) strung out on the long, hilly road to Viana, with Kristof, Ali, Patrick, and I bringing up the rear. The wind howled. Kristof checked into the first albergue in Viana.
With Ali fallen far behind, Patrick and I entered central Viana as the Iglesia de Santa Maria had thrown open its doors to let out an enormous crowd from the mid-day Mass.
After waiting for the crowd to thin, I prepared to enter the church, which has the tomb of Cesare Borgia – a sight I had been looking forward to seeing.
Instead, an angry looking gentleman shouted something at us and wagged his finger at me. As I stood there, astonished, he slammed the door in my face.
I must contrast this with another walk, with Francine in Tacoma on the Feast of the Assumption, 2004.
I was determined to shake Viana’s dust from my boots, when I espied the rest of our group, resting and eating in the little square by the church. Amidst the crowd was Charlie, Eamon, Petra, Cliff, and a new friend, Viola from Berlin.
Ate a picnic lunch, and Ali soon joined us. We resolved to push on to Logroño.
We have now left the charming Kingdom of Navarra and entered the region of La Rioja. We are staying at the giant municipal albergue. The Germans were wanting a beer, so Eamon, Petra, Viola, and I ended up at a place called The Drunken Duck where we had Heineken and San Miguel. Much German was spoken, while Eamon and I nodded sagely.
Massive evening dinner for Carlos’ 30th birthday. Festive, loud, singing. At least 18 people for the dinner, and six or seven who came in later. Riotous good fun. Met many more pilgrims, too numerous to count.
All the photos! Day 6.