One Year Ago: Cows! And a Great Evening in Fonfría

25 April 2014 Camino

(from my journal)

Fonfría
25 April 2013

First Breakfast in Vega

Today we traveled, on and off, with Iain, Anja, and a lovely Korean lady named Isabel (or, as I like to call her, Bob). The climb to O’Cebreiro was steep and rough, quite the toughest climb so far… but one.

Cows with Cowbells. Francine was so enchanted with the sound, that she recorded it.

Somewhere near Ruitelán

Bar in Las Herrerías – Second Breakfast

We lunched with Anja in O’Cebreiro, and also met Radek there. Radek is from Poland – an amazing and humble guy – who is shepherding two kids from Canada, David and Lana (who I sometimes call the Saskatchewan Kid and Canada Girl. It’s a superhero thing.)

We’ve seen them on and off since before León – possibly since before Logroño. A few nights ago in Molinesca, Radek helped me work out our remaining route. I hope to meet up with them again tomorrow in Samos.

The view from the top of the pass is amazing, and the village itself was the site of a Eucharistic miracle in the 14th century. In the 21st, however, at least today, it was overrun by two busloads of German tourists. We ate and stayed a bit to wait out the hottest part of the day, while a group of Germans at the bar sang songs in both German and Spanish.

Anja and Francine in O’Cebreiro

The View from O’Cebreiro

On into Galicia! Such a beautiful country. We thought we were done climbing, but a series of rises brought us into a thin pine forest, where Francine, Anja, and I made the determination to finish the day in Fonfría.

Alto de San Roque

Cows on the Road! Hospital de la Condesa

The Way followed a highway, usually right next to it as a gravel path. Just before Alto do Poio there was a entirely unexpected hill – easily the steepest part of the Camino so far. At one point, I was nearly on all fours. It was a kilometer long, and the town was at the top.

More importantly, a bar was at the top.

When we came into sight, the peregrinos sitting outside the bar erupted in applause. We had some tonic there, and pushed on over a relatively easy road to Fonfría.

At dinner, Iain and a young Japanese kid named Su took turns singing and playing guitar. The company was excellent, and the dinner fantastic. A great night of food, fellowship, and fun.