One Year Ago: to Burgos
(from my journal)
The standing stones of Atapuerca, at a place called Fin de Rey.
This is where the armies of two brothers – King Garcia of Navarra and King Ferdinand of Castile – met in battle. King Garcia’s defeat and death here paved the way for Castillian dominance of Spain, and pretty much marked the end of the road for the Kingdom of Navarre.
Climbing Matagrande. Steep, bleak, and a military range on top. What could be more fun?
Atop Matagrande. The wind howled.
Atop Matagrande – the descent into Villalval, with Burgos beyond.
Burgos
12 April
We were continually lost during the deathmarch to Burgos, as we trudged through slums, industrial zones, and streets of shuttered businesses. All in all, not the best introduction to a city. The people we passed all seemed surly, and virtually no one returned any greeting.
Burgos: the LEGO tenements.
The city centre, by contrast, is quite beautiful, and it retains much of the city’s medieval character.The cathedral itself is an architectural wonder. We went to an evening Mass and pilgrim blessing, but most of the cathedral interior is closed off and only available on Sundays or to paying tourists.
If one word could sum up our experience of Burgos, it would be “crass”.
Yes, that’s right. The Hobbiton Café in Burgos. Sadly, it wasn’t open.
Bridge and archway into the old city in Burgos.
Our albergue in Burgos, operated by one of the oldest confraternities in Spain. They’ve been running a pilgrim hostel since the 10th century.
Carlos, looking tired.
Viola, who did not want her photo taken.
Eamon: always a smile
Burgos Cathedral
Burgos Cathedral
Cliff, with the cheese.
Breaking bread in Burgos. For some of these folks, it would be the last time we saw each other until Santiago.
Nope. I have no idea either.
Reunited with both Carlos and Cliff! Sad farewell to Viola who will be spending one or two rest days here.
Some irritating voice in the albergue boasted that he avoided the walk through Burgos and got a cab. Felt genuinely angry at this, though I’m not sure why. The smug tone, probably, and the proud determination to avoid every hardship possible. Must think on this.
Tomorrow the Meseta.
All the photos: Day 11. Includes some shaky video of Burgos Cathedral.