Zubiri in the Rain 

Yesterday was warm and sunny. Today we started with rain that soon became a day-long downpour. A very cold downpour. Ponchos came out at second breakfast in Bar Fronton in Burguete. Despite hail and freezing rain, we made very good time in the morning, lunching in Biskaretta. We even stopped by Corazón Puro to say hi to István and Barbara, but […]

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All the Pain

Today was probably the most physically challenging day of my life so far. We bought some sandwiches and left Saint-Jean in good spirits. We soon met up with Penny, a seventy-ish woman from Idaho and Matthias, a young German who started his Camino three months ago from his home in Köln. Penny wasn’t walking with a pack, having sent hers ahead. […]

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Tourists in France

First breakfast and Lauds at Corazón Puro. István and Barbara drove us to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. We are in France! We stopped in at the pilgrims office for our orientation and map. Then to Boutique du Pelerin to pick up our new hiking poles and an Opinel (with a corkscrew, naturally).We walked up to the citadel – the medieval castle was apparently […]

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Easter Monday

It was 24 hours of travel!   High winds in London meant flight delays. We were an hour late in landing, and we had some panicky moments when we thought our flight from Heathrow to Madrid might be canceled.Fortunately, it was only delayed about an hour. We made up some time in the air, and landed 45 minutes late. We breezed […]

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We’re Off!

When in April the sweet showers fall And pierce the drought of March to the root, and all The veins are bathed in liquor of such power As brings about the engendering of the flower, When also Zephyrus with his sweet breath Exhales an air in every grove and heath Upon the tender shoots, and the young sun His half-course […]

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Good Friday: God is Dead

Today is Good Friday: the commemoration of the crucifixion and death of Jesus Christ at Calvary. Ecce lignum Crucis, in quo salus mundi pepéndit. Veníte adorémus. Behold the wood of the Cross, on which hung the salvation of the world. Come let us adore. (Missale Romanum: Friday of the Passion of the Lord) He was condemned by his own people, […]

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Maundy Thursday:
Do This in Memory of Me

The Season of Lent comes to its end this evening, as we celebrate the Mass of the Lord’s Supper. This celebration commemorates the institution of the Eucharist, the source and summit of Church life. Unlike most Protestants, the Catholic and Orthodox (and others of the Apostolic Tradition) believe that God is really there, wholly present in the consecrated bread and […]

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Rehearsals

The thing about Holy Week is that its liturgies – if they are to be done well and worthily – require practice and rehearsal. We had two on Saturday (for Palm Sunday and Easter Vigil), and I’m going to one for Holy Thursday in about an hour. We’ll probably sneak in a quick one before Tenebræ. Friday is the rehearsal […]

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