Laudes Creaturarum

On Earth Day, I’m reminded of the great Canticle of the Sun, written by Saint Francis of Assissi in about 1224. It is, of course, this verse that comes to mind: We praise You, Lord, for Sister Earth, who sustains us with her fruits, colored flowers, and herbs. Although it’s now known as Canticle of the Sun, the author’s original […]

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One Year Ago: León and… Francine!

(from my journal) León 19 April In León after a relatively easy 18km walk, made only slightly more difficult by the fact of walking on sidewalks for much of it. This is a fantastic city! It’s probably my favourite so far – other than Pamplona of course. Narrow, crooked streets, bursting with life and commerce. A Lion in León! Plaza […]

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One Year Ago: the Meseta Nears its End

(from my journal) Mansilla de las Mulas 18 April Another long Meseta trek. Breakfast in El Burgo Ranero. Met a cat outside the bar who begged for food. Power-walked after El Burgo Ranero – not sure why the energy. Met back up with Eamon at rest area about 5km before Reliegos where we lunched. Second half of lunch in Reliegos, […]

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Good Friday: God is Dead

Today is Good Friday: the commemoration of the crucifixion and death of Jesus Christ at Calvary. Ecce lignum Crucis, in quo salus mundi pepéndit. Veníte adorémus. Behold the wood of the Cross, on which hung the salvation of the world. Come let us adore. (Missale Romanum: Friday of the Passion of the Lord) He was condemned by his own people, […]

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Holy Thursday: Do this in Memory of Me

The Season of Lent comes to its end this evening, as we celebrate the Mass of the Lord’s Supper. This celebration commemorates the institution of the Eucharist, the source and summit of Church life. Unlike most Protestants, the Catholic and Orthodox (and others of the Apostolic Tradition) believe that God is really there, wholly present in the consecrated bread and […]

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One Year Ago: Halfway

(from my journal) Bercianos del Real Camino 17 April Francine is in flight! Meanwhile, today was another introspective Meseta day – bleak, virtually unchanging scenery pushing thoughts deep within with little distraction. Entered the Province of León. Just before arriving in the town of Sahagún, at a little place called Ermita de la Virgen del Puente, I crossed the halfway […]

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One Year Ago: the Long Flat

(from my journal) Terradillos de los Templarios 16 April / St. Bernadette Leaving Carrión de los Condes Ruined Church Overlooking Carrión de los Condes Monasterio de San Zoilo, just outside Carrión de los Condes Today started out with 17.5 km of nothing. It didn’t get much better as the day went on. Lots of time to think, about what comes […]

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One Year Ago: the Longest Walk

(from my journal) Carrión de los Condes 15 April A record-breaking 34km day. The walk to Frómista along the Canal de Castilla was very pleasant. It was not yet hot – we left at 7:30 – and a cool breeze blew through the trees beside the canal as Eamon, Mia, and I walked in the morning light. Lunch in Frómista, […]

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One Year Ago: Some Kind of Desolation

(from my journal) Itero de la Vega Third Sunday of Easter Hot. Dry. Sunny. The Meseta – at least what we’ve seen of it so far – has not, however, lived up to its reputation for “flat”. We had two trying climbs today, one before lunch, one after. We left San Bol early, partly with the idea of getting to […]

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One Year Ago: From Majesty to Tranquility

(from my journal) Arroyo San Bol 13 April Burgos Cathedral this morning. We spent about two hours wandering around through this – superlatives fail me – magnificent? glorious? fantastical? – Gothic marvel. I was a little disturbed by the decision to turn most of it into a museum, seemingly to include virtually all of the little chapels radiating out from […]

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One Year Ago: to Burgos

(from my journal) The standing stones of Atapuerca, at a place called Fin de Rey.This is where the armies of two brothers – King Garcia of Navarra and King Ferdinand of Castile – met in battle. King Garcia’s defeat and death here paved the way for Castillian dominance of Spain, and pretty much marked the end of the road for […]

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