San Xulián de Samos

Although it no longer appears on the Universal (Roman) calendar, today is one of two feasts of Saint Benedict celebrated by Benedictines throughout the world.

This is the day in the year 547 when Saint Benedict of Norcia died.

Saint Benedict is generally considered the founder of western monasticism, and his Rule spread throughout the west as the Roman Empire was collapsing. Pope Pius XII lauded him, for in the perilous times that followed Rome’s fall, it was Benedictine monks who preserved the ancient learning.

It was for this reason that Pope Paul VI proclaimed him a patron saint of Europe.

Often on this day, I post a little something about Benedictine monasticism in the present day. Usually, this is good news, as despite setbacks (including the occasional earthquake) traditional Benedictine monasteries are thriving – and growing! – in places as diverse as Italy, Ireland, and Oklahoma.

Today, though, I’d like to talk about a community that has suffered more than a century of decline. This is the Royal Monastery of San Xulián de Samos in Galicia in Spain. Francine and I visited during our 2013 Camino.

It was founded in the sixth century, though it was abandoned for a while in the eighth century due to the area being overrun by invading Moslem armies. It has been under royal protection since it was reestablished in the year 760.

It was an important monastery throughout the middle ages. It was a college of theology and philosophy and a major stop on the Camino de Santiago. It began a long, slow decline in the seventeenth century, culminating in the militant secularist Spanish government throwing the monks out in 1836. They only returned in 1880.

Following a fire in the 1950s, the entire monastery was rebuilt for what was probably the fourth time. The current structure is large, sprawling, and beautiful, and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

But what of the monks? Here is where the sadness lays.

In years passed, pilgrims could join the monks for Mass or for the Divine Office. I said at the time,

Beautiful chanted Mass and Vespers later with the monks (or some of them – I’m not actually entirely clear on how many there are) was a moving and uplifting experience, even if I understood barely a word (Latin more than Spanish). My overwhelming feeling as we walked through the great cloister was that I was made for the monastery.

So, how many monks are there here, actually? The place could hold several hundred with little trouble.

There are… seven. And they are old and increasingly feeble. I recently learned that they have stopped allowing pilgrims to attend their Masses and Divine Office.

And when the last of these dwindling monks die, what then of Samos?

It’s inconceivable to me that it would be left empty. There are small, but growing, monasteries throughout the world that might be persuaded to take on this project when the time comes, to bring life and a thriving monastic community back to Samos.

Through the centuries, Saint Benedict has inspired men and women to take up a life of radical holiness in service to the Church, and there is little reason to suppose he will stop.

We can only pray for his intercession, and pray for new monastic founders to continue to rise from the Church.

Saint Benedict, pray for us!