A Walk in the Woods

We left the village of Samos as the clocks were striking 8 AM. First, the monastery bells, then a moment later the clocktower at the town hall, and finally a distant church. Most of the day’s walk was through a tapestry of forest and farmland. It was absolutely lovely. Magical. We passed through innumerable places that explored the hazy difference […]

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To Samos!

Today we walked about 17 km from Filloval to Samos. Last night’s sleep was a little rough thanks to a German pilgrim with a mighty snore! So we started late and sauntered through a haunting forest landscape dotted with tiny rural villages and tottering ruins. It began raining about noon, and by the time we arrived at Samos in the […]

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First Day Walking

Distances on the Camino are often a matter of conjecture rather than fact. For example, according to the Michelin map today we walked 16.9 km. The guidebook pegs it at 16.5 km. My Fitbit, on the other hand, puts it closer to 21 km. In any case, we are in the tiny hamlet of Filloval. And when I say tiny, […]

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O Cebreiro at Last!

After three days of airplanes, buses, and one miraculous taxi, we have finally arrived at the start of our pilgrimage. It is late in the evening on the feast of Saint Francis of Assisi. We have obtained our pilgrim shells, and we attended Mass in the local church of Santa Maria a Real do Cebreiro. The church is named after […]

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We got as far as Atlanta

It is the eleventh hour of our twenty-hour Atlanta layover. We spent much of it getting our Madrid boarding passes, getting to a hotel, and sleeping. Before that, however, and before our flight, our Camino began with one of those crazy bits of rhyme the Lord seems to love throwing our way. We took a Lyft to Sea-Tac airport. Pedro […]

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Blessing the Pilgrims

Just after the Noon Mass at our parish of Holy Rosary, Deacon Jim Fish bestowed the traditional Pilgrims’ Blessing on Francine and I – not to mention our “rucksacks”, “staves”, and shell and rosary. The blessing itself is ancient. In its current form it appears the Missal of Vich Cathedral, Barcelona, Spain, dated to AD 1078. We’re extremely grateful to […]

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