Author: Thom

The local parish church of Saint-Médard is the center of the village of Saugues. While the building exterior dates mostly from the 16th century, at least some of the Romanesque (and Gothic) origins of the church can be seen in the splendid and noble interior. And then there’s the matter of Saint Benildus. Date: 19 August 2023 Place: Saugues, Haute-Loire […]

After checking into my gîte, my first stop in Saugues was the local parish church of Saint-Médard. While there has been a church on this site since the 11th or 12th century, this building dates mostly from the 16th century, with some later additions and restorations. At least some of the Romanesque origins of the church can be seen in […]

If Saugues is known at all, it’s known for the legend of the Beast of Gévaudan. This sign as you enter the town announces the local museum dedicated to the Beast. Images of the Beast are everywhere in town. But more on that next week! Date: 19 August 2023 Place: Saugues, Haute-Loire Département, Region of Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes, France Maps!

After an afternoon of climbing up and up and up, the final approach to the town of Saugues was downhill roadwalking. On the way, I met an Italian couple walking with their little fluffy dog, who was not happy about the heat coming off of the road surface – remember that by this point the air temperature was 89° F […]

The approach to the town of Saugues has a number of dramatic and enigmatic wood sculptures, of which this is probably the most striking. What they might mean, I’ve no idea. There are several motifs that run through them, chiefly emblems of the pilgrimage – as you can see by the shell here – and wolves or beasts. More on […]

After Le Vernet the terrain leveled out quite a bit. After the morning’s climbs, it seemed practically flat. It was beautiful meadows and pastures, but almost entirely unshaded, with a temperature in the 80s F (26°+ C). As I mentioned in my blog post of the day, the key to the day’s walk was a combination of faith, tenacity, and […]

I arrived in the village of Le Vernet at just before one in the afternoon, where I passed this interesting little Marian shrine. I wonder what this was part of, originally? This part of the day was roadwalking in the open, and the temperature was already above 80° F (26° C). Date: 19 August 2023 Place: Le Vernet, Haute-Loire Département, […]

After Chapelle Sainte-Madeleine de Monistrol-d’Allier the path continued uphill, through the little hamlet of Escluzels, which truth be told impressed me more as a farmstead than a village. When I finally finished the long, slow climb out of the river valley, the view was amazing. During today’s walk, I refilled both water bottles four times, and my sunscreen sweat off […]

The Chapelle Sainte-Madeleine de Monistrol-d’Allier is partway up the long, steep slope out of the Allier river valley. Christians have been coming to the grotto here since at least the 13th century, but the current chapel façade was only built in the 17th century. This was the original home of the recumbent statue of Saint Mary Magdalene that currently resides down […]