Walking the Camino de Santiago
The evening in San Juan Bautista in Grañón ended with Compline in the choir loft. The walls of the loft were lined with choir stalls, at the center of which stood a giant, four-sided turning music stand that was obviously intended for the six-foot tall psalters produced en masse in the Middle Ages. One of the choir stalls featured this […]
» Read more
For today’s photo, I cheated. Here are five photos that kind of sum up the night at Grañón. Evening Mass was celebrated in a chapel of the church below. Most interesting altarpiece of the humiliation of Christ. Mass was followed by a communal meal, which I very much enjoyed. Not many albergues do this, which is too bad since it […]
» Read more
I took a lot of photos at the Grañón Albergue because in my head it is the absolute epitome of what a small albergue should be: intimate, eclectic, homey, and well-loved. This particular photo sums up the feeling of the place. There were guitars and ukeleles, and so of course song broke out! The pilgrims are playing and singing a […]
» Read more
This is the exterior of the Parroquial San Juan Bautista in Grañón – both the parish church and the village’s albergue. We slept in the steeple of the church, which is larger on the inside than it is on the outside, as it somehow fits two large sleeping chambers and a kitchen. There is also a beautiful common room with […]
» Read more
The actual entrance to the town on the Camino is somewhat uninspiring. Truth be told, it’s a bit depressing with crumbled buildings and trash and bits of discarded concrete pipe. But you go up a set of stairs and just a few streets in, and it looks like this, so huzzah! Grañón is a solid little town with a good […]
» Read more
Camino graffiti is by turns inspiring or enigmatic or just plain silly. Wherever on that spectrum you think this particular one sits, however, it has special meaning for me. Partially this is related to the admonition of a priest when I was in high school exhorting me to “seek Truth” – which I proceeded to do for twenty years before […]
» Read more
In the distance, you can see our objective for the day, the town of Grañón. To the right over the berm is the N-120. Seated at the crossroads is an exhausted young pilgrim from Germany. He and his father were walking the Camino together, but just a day or two after this photo, his father became injured and they had […]
» Read more
You might think this is a painting or a model, but no. This is the actual bridge that the Camino takes over the N-120. Amazing, no? Thereafter, the path (more of a dirt road, really) parallels the highway for quite some time. Date: 09 April 2016 Place: Between Santo Domingo de la Calzada and Grañón (La Rioja, Spain) Maps!
» Read more
This monument is roughly halfway between Santo Domingo de la Calzada and Grañón. It commemorates a hand-to-hand fight between the champions of these two towns in medieval times. They were to determine which town had the right to graze their animals on the surrounding disputed field. For their champion, the people of Santo Domingo chose a professional fighter, paying him […]
» Read more
The humble saint, Santo Domingo de la Calzada is so-called because be built a calzada – a causeway – over the Río Oja in the year 1044. Well, this is the spot. It’s a much newer bridge, of course, dating to 1917, but this is the spot where the saint built the first one. Well, more or less. The channel […]
» Read more