Author: Thom

At the end of a wet and muddy day, we arrive at the Albergue de peregrinos parroquial San Miguel de Estella with legs made of rubber. Our shoes were soaked through, and despite our best efforts were not entirely dry the next morning. This was a night of particular note in several ways. Later that night, the Feast of the […]

This fountain may be found at the entrance to the town of Estella. In English, the inscription reads something like “good bread, excellent water and wine, meat and fish, full of happiness”. This is, I think, the description of the town found in the Codex Calixtinus. It’s certainly still true today. Date: 04 April 2016 Place: Estella (Navarra, Spain) Map […]

You never know who you’re going to meet on the Camino. On this particular rainy afternoon, we met a pair of lost donkeys wandering the trail. They seemed friendly enough, but we had no clue where they might have wandered from. The younger one was braying up a storm, perhaps frightened and lost – or maybe it was just calling […]

The Ermita de San Miguel is located just after the village of Villatuerta. Largely abandoned now, the interior is filled with notes and messages left by pilgrims. Some are prayers, some remembrances, some just shouts into the void. Eamon, Petra, and I visited in 2013 and spent some time reading and contemplating the words of those who had gone before […]

After lunch in Lorca, we continued on in the rain and through the mud. Take a look at the road! This rain-bedraggled look is something we would perfect over the next days and weeks. By this point, my shoes were soaked through. My companions, meanwhile, were trying to make a German flag with their ponchos… Date: 04 April 2016 Place: […]

After a morning of cold rain and mud, we arrived in the village of Lorca and ducked into the local bodega for lunch. The ceiling is low, and the place is fairly dark and cozy. I ate here on my last Camino as well, and I can absolutely recommend the food and the ambiance. It was a most welcome respite […]

Here’s a small reminder, if you needed any, that Navarra is a deeply Catholic country. We spotted this image of the Sacred Heart of Jesus on a house in the village of Lorca just before we ducked into the local bodega for lunch. Here’s a closeup of the image. Date: 04 April 2016 Place: Lorca (Navarra, Spain) Map of our […]

Somewhat past Cirauqui but before Lorca, we come (I believe) to the infamous Río Salado. This bridge, while it appears medieval, is actually of modern construction. As you can see, it’s in quite a bit better shape than the last one! Here we see Katy, Emilio, and Francine crossing the bridge. Date: 04 April 2016 Place: crossing the Río Salado […]

Just a little past Cirauqui, the Camino travels over what was once an ancient Roman arched bridge. Large parts of the structure appear to be missing. I mean, it’s still technically a bridge, but you’ve got a slippery challenge to get down to it, and an equally slippery stair (with gigantic steps!) on the other side. In the rain, this […]