A Tale of Two Albergues

Two nights ago we stayed at the Parroquial Albergue San Juan Bautista in Grañón, and last night at the private Albergue San Roque in Villambísta. Two more different experiences in pilgrim hostels would be difficult to imagine. Both did feature communal meals, which I very much enjoy. Not many albergues do this, which is too bad, since it fosters camaraderie […]

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So We Meet at Last

Arrived in Pamplona about 3:30 PM, so it was a brisk day. The weather was beautiful – cool and mostly overcast. It was perfect walking weather.   We set out from Zubiri at 7:40 after breakfast and a quick meet up with Billy, Becky, and Penny. They weren’t going to leave for a while, so we  pressed on without them. […]

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Zubiri in the Rain 

Yesterday was warm and sunny. Today we started with rain that soon became a day-long downpour. A very cold downpour. Ponchos came out at second breakfast in Bar Fronton in Burguete. Despite hail and freezing rain, we made very good time in the morning, lunching in Biskaretta. We even stopped by Corazón Puro to say hi to István and Barbara, but […]

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All the Pain

Today was probably the most physically challenging day of my life so far. We bought some sandwiches and left Saint-Jean in good spirits. We soon met up with Penny, a seventy-ish woman from Idaho and Matthias, a young German who started his Camino three months ago from his home in Köln. Penny wasn’t walking with a pack, having sent hers ahead. […]

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Tourists in France

First breakfast and Lauds at Corazón Puro. István and Barbara drove us to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. We are in France! We stopped in at the pilgrims office for our orientation and map. Then to Boutique du Pelerin to pick up our new hiking poles and an Opinel (with a corkscrew, naturally).We walked up to the citadel – the medieval castle was apparently […]

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