Camino Primitivo: in Lugo
Today we took rest day in the lovely center of the city of Lugo. After breakfast with Alice and Amy, we ducked into a Dominican church to pay our respects and take some photos. And then, we walked the Roman walls.
Lugo is the only city in the world that retains its original Roman walls, which circumnavigate the entirety of the old city. They are maintained as a sort of promenade. We saw many people walking and jogging (and walking their dogs) atop the walls.
Of course, the city has long since outgrown the walls and so there are tall buildings on either side, but given that Lugo is built atop a hill overlooking the confluence of three river valleys, you can still imagine the commanding view you would’ve had from the top of the walls.
They were heavily modified in the middle ages, with several new gates being added over the centuries. The bastions remain, though of course any of the wooden superstructures that would have been built to top them have long since been removed.
Needless to say, the city is very proud of its Roman heritage. There’s even a relatively new statue of Augustus Caesar and Paulus Fabius Maximus, the fellow who founded the city, in the main plaza.
Made an initial visit to the Cathedral, where the records of the Chapter indicate that perpetual adoration has been going on here since the sixth century.
Lunch at the outdoor restaurant tables literally in front of our apartment door. What started with Francine, Callie, Alice, Amy, and I soon expanded as two additional pilgrims showed up to join us: Alicia from Boston (who we met several days ago) and Renée from The Netherlands. Great conversation and much laughter ensued. There may have been a little sangria as well.
Wandered randomly about the central city after lunch, exploring the maze of narrow streets and stopping in various Little shops and churches.
We took a break for churros and chocolate with Alice and Amy and made plans to meet up with them in Santiago.
I went to the 8 PM pilgrim Mass at the Cathedral. The liturgy begin with the chanting of the Psalms for vespers, and concluded with the Magnificat. This was followed by exposition of the Blessed Sacrament, a Eucharistic procession around the interior of the vast cathedral, and the special benediction given for the pilgrims. It was absolutely beautiful and moving. I very much felt the presence of Christ close to me tonight.
As we were filing out of the cathedral, I ran into Amy who had also been at the Mass.
I took hundreds of photos today, and this is just the merest sample.
