Camino Rain Gear

The quickest way to start an argument amongst pilgrims or on a Camino Forum is to pronounce your opinion on one of two hot-button issues: footwear and rain gear. So, of course, I thought I’d tackle one of those today. The usual caveats apply – every human is different, has different preferences, and different body types. My solution may not be your solution. So, with that out of the way, here’s my opinion on rain gear.

The big argument is always this: rain jacket and pack cover versus poncho. Recently, a new contender has arrived in the form of the hiking umbrella.

Each option has things to recommend it, as well as their own particular drawbacks. So which do I prefer?

I take them all.

To be fair, I mostly use the umbrella for sunshine and very rarely for rain. And given my susceptibility to heat, I will never go on Camino without a hiking umbrella again.

But why take both a jacket and a poncho? Isn’t that just unnecessary weight? The fact is, I find them useful for differing situations – different types of weather and different times of day. While the additional weight is a serious consideration, I think it’s worth it.

Rain Jacket and Pack Cover

The rain jacket is most useful during drizzly or intermittent rain. It also doubles as an additional layer during particularly cold weather, as well as a windbreaker when necessary.

It’s also useful for in-town situations. The rain doesn’t stop just because you get to town. After the usual pilgrim chores of showering and laundry, my next goal is usually to explore whatever city, town, or village I’m in. Without a jacket, I would be doing my exploring wearing a large, ungainly poncho. A rain jacket is a much better option.

And as for the pack cover, mine is built into my pack and weighs mere grams.

The major downfall of this system can be storms. I have seen winds so strong in the Pyrénées that pack covers have been ripped off backpacks or have become little drag parachutes sailing behind the pilgrim.

The other thing to keep in mind is that this system will not keep your legs dry in the slightest. And if you add rain pants, you’re already carrying more weight than if you had a poncho with you.

Poncho

First of all, I’m not talking about the paper-thin, see-through ponchos you often see pilgrims wearing. I think those things are basically useless. No, I’m talking about a lined, over-the-pack poncho that (mostly) covers your legs, complete with a zipper and Velcro tabs to regulate heat. These things are not cheap, but they are also very durable. I am only just now having to replace mine after my fifth Camino.

The poncho is best for days of constant rain or even storm. You’ll become quite adept at flipping your poncho up over your back to put it on. If the rain does stop for a while, I often just take my arms out of the sleeves and let the poncho hang off of my pack.

A poncho can also be a great additional layer if it’s particularly cold outside. On my very first Camino, I wore mine in the snowy spring weather.

The biggest drawback of the poncho is that it’s not really optimal for warm weather rain. It can get quite toasty in there, and if you’re not careful, you’ll sweat so much that it seems drier outside the poncho than inside. As I said, there are ways to regulate the temperatures, but they still have clear limitations.

And again, it’s nice to hang up the poncho to dry at your albergue while you walk around the town wearing your rain jacket.

Where to Stow Rain Gear

Personally, I prefer a backpack that has large side pockets. Not for water bottles – I have those attached to my shoulder straps. Instead, my “alternate weather” gear is stored in them. Normally I have my umbrella on one side, and rain gear on the other. On good days, I can pop the item out of the side pocket without taking off the pack.

On days when I don’t think it’s going to rain and I don’t need my jacket as a windbreaker, I will normally put my jacket in the side pocket and my poncho inside the pack, though I am usually careful to keep it near the top.

I will say that I certainly make exceptions. In 2024, when I walked the Via Podiensis, there was a heat wave in France. My poncho was at the bottom of my pack for most of those weeks, though I still had my jacket in the side pocket.

Wherever you decide to stow your gear, make sure it is within easy reach. I recall one day in 2016 when we crested a hillside on what had already been a rough day and spotted the village of Ledigos. Suddenly, dark storm clouds hove into view. I scoffed that they were nothing – a piffle. Francine, apparently afraid of jinxing the weather before we got into our albergue, shushed me. But it was too late, as the sky started pelting us with hail. The situation was so ridiculous that we doubled over in laughter before pulling our ponchos tight and scampering into town, singing all the way. By the time we got there, the hail had turned into big, fat raindrops.