Category: Liminal Space

Just down the street from the Ermita de San Gregorio, we come to this slightly cattywampus building. Built in 1555 as the house of a local aristocrat, the Duquesa de la Victoria, it has served over the centuries as a home, a wine warehouse, and most recently a neighbourhood restaurant. These days, it’s a home once again. Date: 07 April […]

As we walk along Calle Ruavieja, we come to this shrine, dedicated to San Gregorio Ostiense, who died in this spot on May 9, 1044. He was Abbot of the monastery of Saints Cosmas and Damian in Rome before he was made Bishop of Ostia and later a Cardinal and special envoy to Navarra by Pope John XVIII. Date: 07 […]

We bid farewell to San Pedro and walk through the old town to make our escape. Note the statue in the old city gates. Ahead lies the rolling hills of Navarra, giving way at eventually to the rolling hills of La Rioja. Date: 07 April 2013Place: Viana (Navarra, Spain) Maps!

This is, I presume, the outside door to the sacristy of the Iglesia de Santa María de Viana. In any case, it’s in about the correct position to be, and it faces our picnic spot on the plaza. I just love the patterns made using the river stones on the porch before the door. Date: 07 April 2013Place: Viana (Navarra, […]

Yesterday I told the story of the death of Cesare Borgia. This is the façade of the Iglesia de Santa María de Viana where he is buried. We arrived just as Mass was letting out. Shortly after this photo was taken, Patrick and I went up to the open doors of the church to look for the tomb and to […]

Welcome to Viana! The town continues to be proud of its largest claim to fame: it was here that the infamous Cesare Borgia met his doom. Imprisoned in Spain by his “uncle’s” successor as Pope, Cesare escaped and became a mercenary captain for his brother-in-law, King Juan III of Navarre, who was dealing with a civil war. During the siege […]

Throughout the morning and into the early afternoon, these stone ruins continued to dot the vineyards through which the Camino passed. This photo was taken at just past noon, and still Viana is nowhere in sight. Date: 07 April 2013Place: between Torres del Río and Viana (Navarra, Spain) Maps!

Although it’s difficult to tell except at the highest magnification, this is a photo of a dog sticking it’s nose under the corner of a door. It clearly wants to get out and into the fresh air. Seems appropriate for today. Date: 07 April 2013Place: Torres del Río (Navarra, Spain) Maps!

Solely based on the coat of arms above this shabby door, this was once the grand house of some noble family. These days, like much of rural Spain, it’s a bit run down and in need of some love and care. As I mentioned yesterday, many of the older buildings here are constructed on this lovely red limestone. Date: 07 […]

As I mentioned yesterday, Santa María de Los Arcos is a warren of small chapels and side altars. Here we see a baroque, or possibly rococo, altar through a much earlier decorated romanesque archway. I simply love this level of decorative detail, as well as the historical style mashup that you get in these old churches. In them, you can […]