Walking the Camino de Santiago
Just a reminder that Galicia is primarily a rural country, where pilgrims don’t necessarily have right of way. We met these sheep, with their sheepdogs and shepherd, near the village of Parrocha. We are heading for the valley of the Río Miño and our destination for the evening: the town of Portomarín. Date: 28 April 2016 Place: Parrocha (Galicia, Spain)
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The day dragged on. By the time we reached our planned second breakfast village, Mercadoiro, it was past lunchtime. So we ate lunch and revised the plan for the day, targeting the town of Portomarín as our stopping place, rather than Gonzar 7.5 km beyond. This photo is the interior window of the restroom of the bar in Mercadoiro. The […]
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I mentioned before the ludicrous distance markers in Galicia, well this is one of the most egregious. Of old, here stood the 100km marker. Every pilgrim had their photo taken with it. It was a rite of passage. Now, however, modern cartography, GPS, and dubious math has renamed this the 99.930km marker. Doesn’t quite have the same ring to it, […]
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The morning’s terrain was undulating, and the road varied between mud and asphalt. Our initial burst of speed quickly died back to a trudge. Our mood fell as the road seemed to unaccountably lengthen, even as we walked it. In this photo, Francine tells me what she thinks. Date: 28 April 2016 Place: near Mirallos, probably (Galicia, Spain)
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The pilgrims cross a stone bridge across an unnamed tributary of the Río Loio. The early part of the day was tiny hamlet after tiny hamlet. I’m not even entirely sure that all of them were inhabited. It made for a quick walk through idyllic countryside, and we confidently expected to be eating our second breakfast in Mercadoiro. Date: 28 […]
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We set out about dawn on the morning of April 28, 2016 from the village of Barbadelo. Our goal today was the village of Gonzar. Despite the fact that we roared out of the gate this morning, we wouldn’t make it nearly that far. Date: 28 April 2016 Place: between Barbadelo and Rente (Galicia, Spain)
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We arrived at the village of Barbadelo positively wiped out, as Rebecca here would tell you if she were awake. Some days on the Camino are just like that. Funnily enough, in our case they mostly seem to involve Sarria… Date: 27 April 2016 Place: Barbadelo (Galicia, Spain) Today’s Maps:
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This sign commemorates the Jacobean Holy Year of 1943. These years are those on which the Feast of Saint James – 25 July – falls on a Sunday. In these years, pilgrims can obtain a plenary indulgence. Typically, the number of pilgrims spike during a holy year. Of course, the number of pilgrims keeps increasing every year. Date: 27 April […]
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This small medieval bridge, known as the Ponte Aspera – the bridge of the stars – crosses the Río Celerio. While we certainly appear to be walking through a forested countryside, I am given to understand that this bridge marks the limits of the town of Sarria. Date: 27 April 2016 Place: Between Sarria and Barbadelo (Galicia, Spain) Today’s Maps:
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We bid our adieus to Sarria at this impressive mosaic sign featuring the town’s arms. Quite suddenly thereafter, we find ourselves in the forested countryside of Galicia once again. It’s about 3:30 in the afternoon, and we have about another 3.5km to go before reaching our planned albergue for the night in Barbedelo. Date: 27 April 2016 Place: Sarria (Galicia, […]
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