Holy Places
13 April 2013
Burgos Cathedral this morning. I really wish I could upload photos from this connection, as I probably took a hundred or more.
We spent about two hours wandering through this – superlatives fail me – magnificent? glorious? fantastical? – Gothic marvel in stone.
I was a little disturbed by the decision to turn much of the structure into a museum, seemingly to include virtually all of the little chapels radiating out from the nave. They were, each of them jewels.
Finally, I think I understand the Gothic aesthetic. It is delicated, intricate, given to flights of fancy but also sublime in tender emotion and explosive in its grandeur.
It is, above all things, beautiful.
After saying our goodbyes to Viola (who opted to stay a day or two in Burgos), Eamon and I set off through urban Burgos and onto the Meseta.
Rolling hills gradually gave way to flatter ground, until you would think the world is made of two hemispheres, emerald and grey below, sapphire and while above.
Weather was sunny, and soon became quite warm. Given our late start (11:30), we had thought to walk as far as Hornillos del Camino, 18.5 km from Burgos. By the time we arrived, the only albergue was full.
We had no choice but to walk an additional 5 km in the heat of the late afternoon to Arroyo San Bol.
I am so very glad we did.
San Bol is an oasis of tranquility. Mia (of the Irish contingent) and Santiago (from Columbia) were both here, along with a number of Germans and a heavy-set Italian, making us nine in all not including Felix our hospitalero.
A communal dinner was served, and afterwards we luxuriated in this little copse of trees surrounding an ancient healing spring, hidden in a little valley in the Meseta.
edited to add: photos!
So what does one do if there is (so to speak) no room at the inn?
Keep walking. Or ask if they have an overflow space – some do, most don´t.
We kept walking. In most places it´s only (!) another 5 or 6 km to the next village. Where I´m at now, however, there are long stretches of just nothing.
I’m looking at temperature climbs. How hot is it on the Maseta?
What do people wear around the albuergues?
What do they wear to sleep in because I still don’t know what to wear to sleep?
Instead of wearing my Ahnu sandals, do you recommend I bring my crocks and flip flops or what since you are having me bring the flip flops for you.
It’s supposed to be eighty in Madrid when I arrive and in the high seventies that first week I’m there in Leon onward.
Hot enough that I´ve gone to shorts.
People generally wear the same sorts of things they hike in, but the clean ones. 😉
Sleeping seems to be mostly underwear and t-shirts. Most folks seem to sleep in the shirt they plan to wear to walk tomorrow.
Some folks (especially the Japanese I´ve seen here) look like they´ve brought an entire casual wardrobe.
Bring the Ahnu´s and flip flops.
You´ll want something light for walking about at night, and the crocs are only marginally ok for this. Flip flops for the shower.