Initial Thoughts on the Meseta
Third Sunday of Easter
14 April 2013
Hot. Dry. Sunny. This is the Meseta, a large arid plateau that makes up the middle third of the Camino through Spain.
The Meseta is said to be the second trial of the Camino. In the first third, you are tried physically. In the bleak Mesta, you are tried mentally.
It has not yet, however, lived up to its reputation for flatness.
We had two trying climbs today, one after we left San Bol, the other near the end of the day.
Eamon and I left San Bol early with the idea of getting the majority of our walking done before the heat of the day set in. I had also hoped to get to Castrojeriz in time for an 11am Mass.
Pretty much a spectacular failure in both respects.
Castrojeriz surrounds a tall hill, atop which sits the ruins of the Visigoth castle.
Thanks to the steepness of the hill, and my collapse after climbing it, we didn´t make it to town until 11:30. It hardly would have mattered, as of the five churches we found in the town, we couldn´t find one that was actually open.
We had lunch and continued on.
The afternoon was rough. Water and sunscreen flowed. And that final hill was a killer, and after a 27 km day, we arrived in Itero de la Vega exhausted.
You collapsed?
I’m starting to worry. My shin splint gets aggravated after short walks.
Well take a look at the mileage we´ve been doing! Our schedule after Leon is much more relaxed, plus there are villages.
Today, we did an intial walk across the Mesta of 17.5 km before we got to the first village. Galicia is very different.
Collapsed onto a bench, in the shade, and sat there for 30 minutes doing very little but drinking water and panting. I think it´s the sharpest incline on the Camino.
I’m glad to hear you’re ok. I got a sure pair of socks for you, plus a pair of liners. Both are smartwool. Plus you have two pair of socks here that I can pack. One came with the package from thrClymb that arrived fire you did.
Still looking for hotels or pensiones in Leon.
Excellent! Bring the pair that came from the Clymb. I bought some here at a place called “Camino Gear”.
Don´t sweat finding a place in Leon. Experience has shown me that finding a place on the ground is not difficult.
Missing you so much.
Thom
,sounds le you had quit a day. 16.5 miles worth of foot numbing pleasure. That a wide range of weather. Between wind ,rain, snow and sun.. You could qualify as a US Postal carrier sans the pith helmet and leather bag.. I kid ,but it does sound as if you have hit every weather condition (except floods and lightening -heave forbid) so you have weathered the worst, some Lord welling the rest “should be easier”
Thank you for the postings as I look forward each day to hear of your progress . You ‘ll have company soon to share the better half of the trip!
Press on , you ‘re at the point of no return.
Buen Camino and pray for the folks in Boston .
Cam
Thom
,sounds le you had quit a day. 16.5 miles worth of foot numbing pleasure. That a wide range of weather. Between wind ,rain, snow and sun.. You could qualify as a US Postal carrier sans the pith helmet and leather bag.. I kid ,but it does sound as if you have hit every weather condition (except floods and lightening -heave forbid) so you have weathered the worst, some Lord welling the rest “should be easier”
Thank you for the postings as I look forward each day to hear of your progress . You ‘ll have company soon to share the better half of the trip!
Press on , you ‘re at the point of no return.
Buen camino
Cam