One Year Ago: Chickens
(from my journal)
Belorado
10 April
After the severe physical trial of yesterday, we were determined to take it easy, starting late and perhaps only going as far as Grañón or (at the most) Redicilla del Camino, some 11km distant.
Before setting out, we explored the Cathedral. Santo Domingo himself is buried in the crypt, and I knelt there a while imploring the saint’s intercession for the success of my Camino. The museum attached to the Cathedral is beautiful. In particular, there’s a Flemish triptych of the Annunciation that I found moving.
Waiting to get into the Cathedral shop. What 9:30 actually means is “some time before ten”.
Museum exhibit at the Cathedral of Santo Domingo de la Calzada – the Annunciation.
The major pilgrim attraction is, however, the chickens.
The legend is quite interesting – my map sums it up as “the legend of the roast chicken that crowed a condemned man’s innocence”.
Ever since, images of Santo Domingo have included one or more chickens. The whole time we were in the Cathedral, the rooster crowed every few minutes.
Cathedral of Santo Domingo de la Calzada – tomb of the saint.
The Saint’s Effigy
Then we said our tearful goodbyes to Patrick and Petra, and just before 10AM Eamon, Viola, and I hit the road.
Patrick and Petra – our plucky peregrinos prepare for their buses. One to Madrid and then home, one forward on the Camino. I miss you guys!
Once again, we battled a severe wind. Somehow, we attacked the day with a renewed energy, and we were soon in Grañón, with its Iglesia de San Juan Bautista, which was built over the site of an old monastery. We felt good, so we pressed on, passing a huge sign indicating that we had left la Rioja behind and were now entering Burgos Province in Castilla y León.
Almost immediately, the wind stopped.
We lunched on pinchos in Redecilla del Camino, and decided that we were mighty and would walk today to Belorado – a full 23km day.
As soon as we left the village, the wind started up again. I felt much stronger than yesterday, despite some sneezing fits and a runny nose – I’ve been fighting an impending cold since at least Los Arcos.
The terrain was green, bowl-shaped valleys surrounded by low hills. The contrast of the blazing blue sky and the emerald grass was staggering, and sometimes it seemed like we were the only people in the world.
Our spirits were flagging by the time we got to the village of Villamayor del Río, but there we passed a group of Canadian pilgrims. Hooray! We’re NOT the slowest pilgrims!
The very thought gave us renewed energy against the winds, and we walked, rather than staggered, into the Albergue A Santiago in Belorado at about 4:30PM.
9:30PM
I miss Francine terribly. We tried to work out the tech problems we’ve been having with Yahoo! and Flikr, but the idiotic Spanish versions I get over here absolutely and resolutely refuse to accept my password. I’m locked out, but Francine can get in from the US using the same password.
Feeling generally miserable. Viola gave me something for my cold.
All the photos! Day 9.