One Year Ago: From Majesty to Tranquility
(from my journal)
Arroyo San Bol
13 April
Burgos Cathedral this morning. We spent about two hours wandering around through this – superlatives fail me – magnificent? glorious? fantastical? – Gothic marvel.
I was a little disturbed by the decision to turn most of it into a museum, seemingly to include virtually all of the little chapels radiating out from the nave. They were, each of them, jewels. I probably took a hundred photos or more. Video as well.
My Favourite Gargoyle
Burgos Cathedral High Altar
Burgos Cathedral – Ceiling of a Side Chapel
I think I finally understand the Gothic idea of art and architecture. It is delicate, intricate, give to flights of fancy but also sublime in tender emotion and explosive in its grandeur. But it is not the unrestrained exuberance or triumphalism of what came after.
Now, somehow, in my head the Gothic is the culmination and apex of Christian art and architecture. It is above all things beautiful.
After saying our tearful goodbyes to Viola, Eamon and I set off through Burgos and onto the Meseta. The rolling hills gradually give way to flatter ground, until you think the world is made up of two hemispheres, green and grey below, blue and white above.
The weather was sunny and soon became quite warm. Given our late start after touring the Cathedral (11:30!), we had thought to walk only as far as Hornillos del Camino, 18.5km from Burgos. We arrived in Tardajos about 2pm and had lunch in a weird little place full of various animal skulls and taxidermy heads, including a truly impressive boar.
Two hours and 10km later, we arrived footsore in Hornillos only to discover the the albergue there was full.
Meeting Up with Santiago at Hornillos: No Room at the Inn
We sat on a bench. After a half hour or so of resting (and dithering, truth be told) we decided to make for the remote albergue Arroyo San Bol, another 5km down the Way.
I am so very glad we did. This place is an oasis of tranquility. Mia (from Ireland) and Santiago are here, along with a number of Germans, making us perhaps nine in all, plus Felix our hospitalero.
An enormous paella for dinner with the other pilgrims, and lights out as the generator was turned off.
All the amazing photos of Day 12!