One Year Ago: Pamplona!
(from my journal – the day by day account continues!)
Irotz
Easter Wednesday / 11AM
This morning about 8AM we left Kristof behind and set out for Pamplona! No coffee or breakfast until now.
A Farewell to Zubiri
Walking mostly with Eamon or by myself. Ali has lagged behind out of sight, and Cliff has pushed ahead, not wanting to stay still for long.
The terrain is still hilly, but fewer forests. More industrial and suburban villages now.
Lunch in Irotz
Eamon and Carlos
Easter Wednesday / 3:30PM
Met a wonderful gentleman from Brazil named Carlos. He’s been having some knee issues, so he’s been moving slow but steady.
[He shared some honey with us on the road yesterday before Zubiri – “Brazilian bees best in world!”]
Cliff surprised us all by entering the city before us. Eamon, Ali, and I entered together.
Feet hurt. To be expected.
On Carlos’ suggestion, we are at the Albergue de Jesús y María. This is a new, modern facility built inside the old Jesuit seminary, right in the center of the old city. Showered, but will wait for tomorrow for laundry.
No word from Kristof.
Terrain today was hilly and muddy with lots of industrial, followed by a bit of bucolic countryside, and then the town of Villava, which seemlessly blended into Pamplona.
This afternoon, Eamon and I took a slight detour to see the medieval church of San Esteban in Zabaldika. It was a steep climb up the hill to the church, but the church itself was a spiritual gem.
San Esteban in Zabaldika
The church is very tiny inside and obviously built for defense – the steeple has tightly spiraled stone steps and arrow slits – the interior altars and furnishing were nevertheless exquisite. I took many photos after just sitting and praying a bit.
Altar of San Esteban
The old nuns there rather indulgently allowed me to climb the tower and ring the bells at the top. They also handed us an information sheet and a prayer sheet, which were very welcome.
The Bells of San Esteban
After this excursion, Eamon and I caught up with Ali and Carlos, who had both been behind us.
That hour or so detour was easily the most important part of the day for me in terms of just sitting and praying and being intensely mindful of the Communion of Saints. I could feel them sitting in the rough-hewn pews with me, centuries of families, all praying before the same altar in that tiny church.
Resting on the Bridge to Villava
Entering Pamplona through the City Walls
Through the City Gate into Pamplona
Through the Streets of Pamplona
Albergue de Jesús y María
And at 4pm – Kristof arrives!
Dinner at Café Iruña with Eamon, Ali, and new friend Petra. Explored most of central Pamplona and took many, many photos.
In Café Iruña
Petra is from Bavaria, and she recently finished school to become a teacher – she will teach roughly the equivalent of middle school. She is young and nervous, and a dutiful daughter to her widowed mother. I think she’ll do fine on the Camino.
Petra and Eamon at Café Iruña
So much more to tell. Funny how when you’re in the moment of narrative, you leave out so much.
At the Church of Saint Ignatius, stumbling on the small, domed Baroque adoration chapel and spending a quarter-hour praying before Our Lord in the Eucharist.
Failing to get a photo with the life-size statue of Hemmingway at Café Iruña, as that portion of the place was closed.
Running without the bulls.
The Famous “Running Without the Bulls” in Pamplona
Running with the bull statues.
Plaza de Toros.
So much.
Pamplona: Plaza del Castillo
Pamplona: Plaza del Castillo Bandstand
Postcards. Vespers. Bed.
All the photos: Day 2.