One Year Ago: the Longest Walk
(from my journal)
Carrión de los Condes
15 April
A record-breaking 34km day. The walk to Frómista along the Canal de Castilla was very pleasant. It was not yet hot – we left at 7:30 – and a cool breeze blew through the trees beside the canal as Eamon, Mia, and I walked in the morning light.
Lunch in Frómista, where I spent some time in the Romanesque masterpiece of the Iglesia de San Martín, built in 1035. Mia continued on without us.
Iglesia San Martín, Frómista.
The Lock on the Door.
From there, a straight-shot walk by the highway, which brought home the reality of the Meseta.
In Población de Campos, I saw a lamppost I had seen in my dreams, in Carcosa. I’d sketched it perhaps twenty years ago.
Carcosa bleeds into Población de Campos
At Población de Campos, we took a slightly longer alternative route, rather than continue next to the highway for another 9km. This route started out unpromisingly, but soon began running next to a tree-lined river, which was every bit as pleasant as our earlier canal walking.
Ermita de Nuestra Señora del Río near Villalcazár de Sirga
Eventually, the Way left the river to return to the highway, and the full strength of the afternoon sun bore down upon Eamon and I.
We each had a cola in Villalcazár de Sirga while we evaluated our determination to go on today. finally we decided that we’d rather do the long stretch after Carrión de los Condes in the morning.
The last 5.5km to Carrión was the now familiar dead straight shot along the highway, with oceans of grassy Meseta to each side. We soon separated, Eamon surging forward and me walking with a more deliberate pace. We walked alone, each of us enveloped in the Meseta and alone to struggle with our own thoughts.
Big news was the catastrophic failure of footwear. The heels in my shoes are deteriorating, and as a result I’d pounded both pairs of hiking socks to dust – heel holes in both right socks. Also have my first proper tiny little blisters, both on my right foot.
Both feet swollen and bruised for the first time in a week. Was able to purchase two pairs of hiking socks and compeed here in Carrión de los Condes.
Dinner with Eamon and Santiago. Briefly saw Cliff.
All the photos for day 14.