Pilgrims on the Way

Here’s one last look at the dining area of the Hospederia de San Juan de Ortega during the best meal I’ve ever had. Although the photo is a little fuzzy, you will see three of the friends we made on this Camino: on the far left in the plaid shirt is Radosław from Poland, and the young couple on the […]

Here we see Viola and another pilgrim in the Hobbity-inn style dining area of the Hospederia de San Juan de Ortega. It was here, probably an hour and a half after this photo was taken, that I ate the best meal of my life. I honestly don’t remember the first course at all, but the main course was three porkchops […]

You might think that the body of San Juan de Ortega rests in the magnificent Hispano-Flemish Gothic sepulchre located in his church. You would be forgiven for thinking so, but as we discovered yesterday, the saint is laid in a rather plain stone casket elsewhere in the church. No, this mortuary monument is in fact entirely empty. It is said that […]

Set against what I can only presume was the reredos of the original altar in this church is the humble tomb of a great saint. It was originally in a nearby chapel, where it was covered with an ornate wooden baldachin. The tomb was opened in the 15th century when it was moved here, and again in the 1960s, when […]

The little church of San Nicolás de Bari de San Juan de Ortega is largely undecorated except for three places: the sanctuary, the tomb of San Juan de Ortega, and as shown here, the ceiling. These tongues of flame are no doubt meant to remind the visitor of the descent of the Holy Spirit upon the disciples at Pentecost. I […]

While the name of this Romanesque church is a mouthful, the church itself is austere and almost claustrophobic. Originally built as part of a monastery in the late 11th century by San Juan, it now contains the saint’s tomb, a plain stone altar, an ancient baptistry and not much else. The doors were open when I arrived. Indeed, on another […]

So far as I know, there’s only one albergue in the little village of San Juan de Ortega, and this is it. It is located within the old monastery grounds. I am unclear whether it is in the same location as the original pilgrim hospital that the saint founded in 1150, or if it is converted from the monastic cells, […]

Finally, we arrived in the tiny village of San Juan de Ortega. How tiny? This photo is most of it. What is now a village was, before the dissolutions of 1835, a monastery. Originally built by San Juan himself, with the aid of his compatriot Santo Domingo de la Calzada, around the year 1142, it has been an unforgettable stop […]

After the the black trees of the bandit forest and the pointless down and up of the Valley of Anger™️, we had one more physical challenge today: mud. Although the stormy weather came and went that day, the mud lingered. It lingered on the ground, on our shoes, and eventually spattered us up to our waists. The mud wasn’t everywhere, […]

We had slogged through the rain and mud for some time, when suddenly this valley confronted us. All the way down, and then all the way back up. I was in a foul mood, and I remember thinking that somebody could have just strung a bridge over the valley. I have struggled with anger all my life, and at that […]