Walking the Camino de Santiago
Like many churches in Spain, the Iglesia Santa María de Palacio in Logroño was built and rebuilt over the course of centuries. Construction began in the twelfth century and continued in fits and starts until the eighteenth. Nevertheless, it has achieved a lovely harmony of shapes and proportions, most evident in this view of the sanctuary from the nave. Shame […]
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We checked into the giant municipal albergue, showered, and headed back out to explore Logroño. The first stop was this church, which didn’t look too impressive on the outside – so much so, in fact, that I didn’t even take a photo of it, other than this sign. The inside, however… Date: 07 April 2013Place: Logroño (La Rioja, Spain)Today started: […]
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Just down the street from the Ermita de San Gregorio, we come to this slightly cattywampus building. Built in 1555 as the house of a local aristocrat, the Duquesa de la Victoria, it has served over the centuries as a home, a wine warehouse, and most recently a neighbourhood restaurant. These days, it’s a home once again. Date: 07 April […]
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As we walk along Calle Ruavieja, we come to this shrine, dedicated to San Gregorio Ostiense, who died in this spot on May 9, 1044. He was Abbot of the monastery of Saints Cosmas and Damian in Rome before he was made Bishop of Ostia and later a Cardinal and special envoy to Navarra by Pope John XVIII. Date: 07 […]
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Once across the bridge and into Logroño, the Camino takes a sudden right turn down this narrow street, Calle Ruavieja. The name itself, of course, comes from rúa vieja, “the old road”, which will probably give you some idea of the antiquity of the street. Most of the buildings are, if not quite modern, let us at least say “not […]
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This was our first view of the old city center of Logroño. The town was founded by the Romans as Varea, probably in the early first century, though the area was probably inhabited during the Iron Age. It prospered during the Medieval Era, before becoming a point of contention between the Kingdoms of Navarra and Castile, often involving siege engines. […]
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Many regions and cities have their own unique ways of marking the camino. Logroño’s is one of my favourites. You will see this arrow and shell tile set into the sidewalks in the city and surrounding suburbs, marking out the route. You just have to remember to keep glancing down! Date: 07 April 2013Place: approaching Logroño (La Rioja, Spain)Today started: […]
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Every pilgrim carries a credencial – a pilgrim’s passport – which must be stamped twice a day during your walk. This is to verify both to albergues and to the Cathedral in Santiago that you are a legitimate pilgrim. Usually, you get these stamps at albergues, churches, or bars. Some folks like this enterprising woman have set up snack or […]
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You will see these little monuments all over the Camino. I’m not talking about the random plinth – though those are everywhere as well – but rather of the abandoned footwear. I’m not really sure how this happens. Shoes blowing out is common enough; I had to replace mine in León. But who, having replaced their shoes, thinks to carry […]
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Camino graffiti continues to provide the best advice. Particularly on this long, windy day. Date: 07 April 2013Place: approaching Logroño (La Rioja, Spain)Today started: in Los Arcos Maps!
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