Pilgrims on the Way

The Camino’s entrance into the town of Nájera may not be the prettiest, but the locals sure are welcoming. “Pilgrims: in Nájera you’re a Najeran.” We walked the 10km from Ventosa by 9:30am, and now we were looking for second breakfast. In the old center of the town we would find that, and so very much more. Date: 09 April […]

My pilgrim friend Viola from Berlin shows off… whatever this is. There were a number of these stone things along the Camino in La Rioja. I’ve heard various stories as to what they are: bodegas, old cottages, shelters for sheep, granaries. So what are they? I believe they are called “chozas”, which just means “huts”. Which isn’t very helpful. Date: […]

No explanation or story (or filter on the photo), just La Rioja. Date: 09 April 2013Place: between Ventosa and Nájera (La Rioja, Spain)Today started: in Ventosa (La Rioja, Spain)

The rolling vineyards of La Rioja proved an easy morning walk. The town you see in the distance is Nájera, some 10km from Ventosa and our target for second breakfast. The landscape was beautiful, and the air was cool. I’m sure that helped speed us on our way. Date: 09 April 2013Place: between Ventosa and Nájera (La Rioja, Spain)Today started: […]

We left our albergue in Ventosa at about 7:30 am. I slept well after what ended up being a late night. Turns out the albergue owners also owned the nearby vineyards – possibly these vineyards – and made an amazing wine. Of which we shared many bottles. Many. Bottles. Somehow, we were up before dawn and soon stumbling down the […]

For dinner, we headed over to the Café-Bar Buen Camino. A no-brainer, since there was only one other place to eat, and it was closed. For some reason – possibly the early hour – we had the place to ourselves. Three years later, Francine and I would have lunch here. From left to right: Eamon, me in the back, Patrick, […]

Here’s the view from the choir loft. Certainly not bad for a tiny village church. The reredos were completed in the 17th century, though several of the statues are much older, perhaps dating to the 14th century. The images include San Saturnino, the Blessed Virgin Mary, San Roque, San Juan Bautista, and the four Evangelists. At the very top is […]

Eamon and I decided to explore what there was of the local village before dinner. We climbed up the short hill to the church after which our own albergue is named. The Iglesia de San Saturnino seems to date from the 16th century, with the tower being built about a century later. Some of the interior art, however, is considerably older. […]

It was early enough in the afternoon that I spent some time wandering around the Albergue de Peregrinos San Saturnino. I’d love to know the history of the place. It’s a private albergue, owned by a local vintner – more on that later – but it’s named after the local parish church, and it has this lovely small altar on […]

This photo is pretty self-explanatory, I think. This is my journal, which I am updating in the albergue courtyard while I imbibe a beverage, provided by the nearby vending machine. Yes, beer from a vending machine. No, it wasn’t very good. Date: 08 April 2013Place: Ventosa (La Rioja, Spain)Today started: in Logroño (La Rioja, Spain)