Pilgrims on the Way

The shells led us to the central plaza of Obanos, dominated by the church of San Juan Bautista de Obanos. It was locked up – and honestly we were too tired for visiting – but three years later Francine and I would have a memorable visit indeed, where we would learn about the Mystery of Obanos and meet San Guillermo. […]

We don’t arrive in Obanos until six o’clock. At this point, it’s just sheer determination that we’re still walking. Everybody wants a rest, but nobody wants to stop for long for fear that we won’t be able to get going again. The shells mark the Way. Date: 04 April 2013 Place: Entering Obanos (Navarra, Spain) Map!

At about 5:30 we finally left Eunate. It’s almost 5km to Puente la Reina, our destination for the evening, which means that even at the best of times we won’t arrive before 6:30. This is not the best of times. We’re exhausted. Feet numb, I staggered through the rain and wind, practically on auto-pilot. Cliff is struggling with blisters, and […]

Although the plan of the church of Santa María de Eunate is basically octagonal, the side of the octagon with the apse itself protrudes as its own quasi-hexagon. Here you can see some of the delightful details of the exterior of the apse including the gargoyles, romanesque arches, and alabaster windows. Date: 04 April 2013 Place: Eunate (Navarra, Spain) Map! […]

I was fascinated by the cobbled walkways through the arcades outside surrounding Santa María de Eunate. Flat rocks, all of a size, but turned lengthwise into the ground. I wonder if they were reused from something else? If we were to dig one out, would we find inlaid designs on the faces, repurposed from some older, more elegant floor? Or […]

Here I am standing in the octagon of pillars and arches surrounding the isolated Iglesia de Santa María de Eunate. No one knows why they were built here. The church itself dates to the mid-12th century, though the first documented evidence of its existence comes almost 300 years later. Based on the unusual octagonal plan, it was most probably built […]

The church of Santa María de Eunate is basically in the middle of farmland. Other than the church itself, there’s only one other building on the site. I understand that this building, now a retreat center, was once an albergue. It’s too bad that it wasn’t still, because we certainly would have stayed here. This first glance immediately reveals something […]