Pilgrims on the Way

Alicia stands near the Baptismal font, which dates to the 13th century, probably a generation removed from the original dedication of the church in 1180. The baptistry doubles as a sacristy and storage room, which strikes me as not atypical in Spain, where more than 80% of the population identify as Catholic, but less than 15% actually practice their faith. […]

This altar in Igrexa Santa María de Melide is a Romanesque jewel. The guide claimed it was the original 12th century altar, when this was a monastic church. Based on the arrangement of the apse seating – which is built into the building itself – it would appear that the altar must be in more or less its original position. […]

Eventually, urban Melide gives way to rural outlying districts. Just a few dozens of meters off the Camino, the Igrexa Santa María de Melide is delightful gem. Much of the structure dates to the 12th century, though modifications and repairs were made in the 15th and 17th century. While Francine and Rebecca pushed on, Alicia and I ducked over to […]

The Camino winds through the backstreets and alleys of urban Melide. Along the way, this incongruously beautiful fountain brightens up what is otherwise a parking lot. Date: 30 April 2016 Place: Melide (Galicia, Spain) Maps of the Day:

The Capilla de San Roque is a tiny little church on a busy street in the most urban part of Melide. It was built in 1949 using portions of the demolished churches of Saint Roque and Saint Peter. The sanctuary is crowded with statues, presumably from the two older churches, but they are arranged in an uninspired, workmanlike manner. In […]

And this, my friends, is what you find in a pulpería – pulpo! Boiled octopus tentacles, snipped into bite-sized pieces, drizzled with olive oil and Spanish paprika. That’s some good lunch. Add bread and cold bowl of ribera, and it’s a little slice of heaven on earth. Date: 30 April 2016 Place: Melide (Galicia, Spain) Maps of the Day:

Finally we have arrived in Melide! It’s pretty much a great stop for lunch or at the end of the day. Why? Pulperías! The town is littered with them. In fact, there’s one right on the Camino as you come into the central part of the town. Often their large window facing the Camino will be open, and there will […]

After yesterday’s Crucifix – which might just be the most emotionally and spiritually moving piece of art on the whole of the Spanish Camino – anything else is inevitably going to be a let-down. Nevertheless, I’d be remiss in not posting this handsome Gothic side altar. It features the images of three saints. From left to right we have Saint […]