Walking the Camino de Santiago
Here we are, arriving at the bar across the street from yesterday’s small castle. It’s sunny here, but around the corner there were some tables in the shade. Francine, Rebecca, Anita, and several other pilgrims and I enjoyed some lovely bocadillos and the local wine here. The wine was chilled and perfect for a hot day. In my journal I […]
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After passing several Romanesque and Gothic churches, including of course an Iglesia de Santiago, we came to this: the Castle of the Marquises of Peña Ramiro, built in the 16th century. In Spanish, it has the rather grander name of el castillo-palacio de los Marqueses de Peñarramiro de Villafranca del Bierzo. While under other circumstances we might try to tour […]
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Welcome to Villafranca del Bierzo – this time for sure! This was our first real view of the town, which sits below the main Camino road in a valley within a valley. The Camino runs down into the town, of course, past two churches and a castle. As for us, we’re looking for lunch! Date: 24 April 2016 Place: Entering […]
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Welcome to Villafranca del Bierzo! I mean, you can’t really see much of the town as yet, but surely this sign isn’t a lie? Perhaps it is simply an exaggeration? Or perhaps the official bounds of the town are considerably larger than the area taken up by its buildings? Wait! What’s that I see at the top of the next […]
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As we approach the town of Villafranca del Bierzo, we pass through an old farmstead that includes this building. I want to say something about this, because while it is an extreme example, you see this sort of thing all over the Camino. Indeed, in a sense you see this wherever humans live. Was the original wall medieval, or was […]
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In the past, I’ve compared Navarra to Tuscany. I mean, it’s not, but it has the same sorts of terrain and picturesque hill towns. In the Tuscany Look-Alike Sweepstakes, the valley of El Bierzo is also clearly in the running. I mean, how can you imagine a more idyllic image than the stately home on the hill, shaded by trees […]
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Once we got out into the countryside of El Bierzo, there was a lot of hill walking. Up and down. And down and up. And up. What through-hikers sometimes call “PUD walking” (Pointless Up and Down). Absolutely gorgeous day for it, though. And what could be better than walking through vineyards? Date: 24 April 2016 Place: Between Pieros and Villafranca […]
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Deep within the vineyards of El Bierzo, the Camino passes a large field filled with sculpture. This photo only shows a small corner of it. Why this sculptor’s studio is literally on a Camino hillside far away from town is a mystery to me, but clearly it does save him on warehouse space. For those interested in his wares, bonus […]
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Though it was a Sunday, finding a Mass anywhere in Castilla y León has proved a challenge, even in the cathedral cities. Nevertheless, I did manage to do so as we were leaving town. The Way from Cacabelos eventually runs back into the El Bierzo vineyards. The day was beautiful, and the countryside filled with stunning views. Date: 24 April […]
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Morning walk along a roadway and we were starting to get warm, so we found a bench where we could take off our packs a moment and shed some layers. Nearby this sign warned motorists to keep an eye out for us. Date: 24 April 2016 Place: Leaving Cacabelos (Castilla y León, Spain) Today’s map, part 1:
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