Pilgrims on the Way

Castilla y León (and, indeed, all of Spain) is divided into provinces. Here, we are leaving the Province of Burgos and entering the Province of Palencia. Why they felt the need to tell us three times, I’m not certain. Date: 15 April 2016 Place: Border between the Provinces of Burgos and Palencia (Castilla y León, Spain) Today’s Map:

Just past San Nicolás de Puente Fitero is the Río Pisuerga, which forms the border between the provinces of Burgos and Palencia. This bridge contains construction work from the 12th, 16th, 17th, and 20th centuries. It’s a highway bridge, so we leave the muddy path to walk on asphalt among the traffic. Hey! At least it stopped raining! Date: 15 […]

We are approaching the Ermita de San Nicolás de Puente Fitero. This little 12th-century church once belonged to the Knights of the Order of the Hospital of St. John of Jerusalem (a.k.a. the Knights of Malta). For awhile, it was a parish church for the nearby village of Itero del Castillo. Nowadays, it’s an albergue run by the Italian Confraternity […]

This was our afternoon. We descended from Alto de Mostalares into the wet and muddy plains. Then we trudged through mud. And then it rained some more. Huzzah! Date: 15 April 2016 Place: Near Itero del Castillo (Castilla y León, Spain) Today’s Map:

This is a sight which will soon become not only familiar but positively tedious in its consistency. When we crossed the Meseta – a place known for having a relatively dry climate – the area was enduring hundred-year rains. We ran into a lot of mud. Now the thing about mud is, it really slows you down, what with the […]

There are many memorials on the Camino to fallen pilgrims. This one is on the downslope of the Alto de Mostalares. Perhaps he was run over by a bicycle. Perhaps he stumbled and injured himself on the steep slope. Perhaps he was simply in bad health. If your Spanish is good, perhaps you can provide a translation. Date: 15 April […]

This is a heck of a view in better weather. What’s not so great is the concrete path down. It’s pretty steep, and in damp conditions seems particularly treacherous. The bikes just fly down, and everybody else takes tiny, tiny steps as slowly as they can. It’s no fun. Date: 15 April 2016 Place: Colina de Mostalares (Castilla y León, […]

As you can see, Francine is not thrilled with the upcoming walk down the Alto de Mostalares. Me neither. Date: 15 April 2016 Place: Colina de Mostalares (Castilla y León, Spain) Today’s Map:

Well, actually the edge of the Alto de Mostalares, complete with the sign warning of an 18-degree downslope. We’re still up in the clouds, here, so you can only see the barest hint of the world beyond. Unlike the climb up or the road across, the climb down is paved in concrete. This makes it especially popular with bicycles, as […]

Once you make it to the top of the Alto de Mostalares, there’s a lovely sheltered area where you can rest. I remember on my first Camino it was really warm the day I made this climb, and I spent a long, long time rehydrating here. Having made the climb on a cool, cloudy day was much easier. After perhaps […]