Pilgrims on the Way

The Camino follows the N-120 highway for a bit. We are approaching the prosperous town of Villamayor del Río. The inhabitants of the town are known as “the people of the three lies” since the town is neither a Villa, nor Mayor, nor has Río. Nevertheless, it was originally founded in the year 598, and that should count for something. […]

This is, undoubtedly, one of the more famous signs on the Camino. I’m willing to bet that nearly all passing pilgrims stop a moment to look. Most will photograph it. What does it mean? I’ve no idea. It is located after Viloria de Rioja just as the Camino approaches the N-120 Highway (again). Date: 10 April 2016 Place: Between Viloria […]

The village is tiny. Many of the villages of the Camino are compact, with the houses practically touching one another. Viloria de Rioja by contrast with its 37 inhabitants sprawls down several streets that sort of converge here. Date: 10 April 2016 Place: Viloria de Rioja (Castilla y León, Spain) Maps!

Weirdly, the village of Viloria de Rioja is not in the region of La Rioja. I assume it was at one point, medieval borders being what they were. Tradition has it that Domingo Garcia (later Santo Domingo de la Calzada) was born in Viloria on May 12, 1019. Today was seriously windy. We spent all morning walking into the wind. […]

In the rolling green fields just past Castildelgado, we find this sign. It claims that we have only 576 kilometers to go before Santiago. By comparison, we’ve walked perhaps 200 to 250 so far. Reports vary. Let’s assume we’re one-third of the way into our Camino. Of course, as we know from long, bitter experience, the distance signs on the […]

I‘ve often said that Spain, or at least the northern part we visited, isn’t a country so much as several different countries jammed up together. Each has its own geography and climate, its own food, its own culture, and even its own language. Here are a couple of funky things that let you know that you’re probably in Castilla rather […]

Castildelgado has a population of perhaps 60, but for a thousand years, it has done a bustling trade with the pilgrims who pass through. This is the major religious site, the Iglesia de San Pedro. It holds the remains of the village’s most illustrious son: Don Francisco Delgado, Archbishop of Burgos. Fun history bit: some say it was he who […]

We had our second breakfast in the village of Castildelgado in a place called “Restaurante El Chocolatero“. Because why wouldn’t you? It’s apparently also a hostel, but it might be a wee bit too dangerous for me to stay there. Date: 10 April 2016 Place: Castildelgado (Castilla y León, Spain) Maps!