Pilgrims on the Way

Welcome to Villafranca del Bierzo! This was our first clear view of the town, which sits below the main Camino road in a valley within a valley. I’ve taken some variation of this photo both times we’ve walked past this site. The Camino runs down into the town, of course, past two churches and a castle. As for us, we’re […]

Regardless of what the sign says, we’re still a couple of kilometers from Villafranca. Still, we will see any number of signs over the next half hour or so advertising Refugio Ave Fénix. Twice we’ve walked this section of the Camino, and neither time did we stay in Villafranca del Bierzo. If I ever do, I’ll have to check this place […]

Much of this stretch of the Camino is over undulating dirt roads through vineyards. There are countless little hills. None of them were difficult, but they were relentless, one after the other. Still, the countryside was beautiful, the morning air cool and clear, and the company good. We could already tell, though, that the heat would set in again in […]

Yes, that is a giant nose. Or at least, I’m pretty sure it is. Past Pieros, the Camino passes this delightful yard, which is a sort of storage area for a local sculptor. You can see some other pieces, if you look at the photo I posted of this area from our 2016 Camino. Always a surreal delight to pass […]

Fine hiking day in the morning, walking off and on with Smith and Tara (from Indiana), Santiago (from Columbia), and Stella and Diego (from Brazil). Later in the day, we also met up with Ian (from Glasgow) and Anya (from Germany). I’m reminded of that old saying: “I went to Spain and met the world”. I’m only sorry that I […]

The village of Pieros is tiny (population 36), but it has a café. Although I didn’t record it in my journal, I’m pretty sure that we stopped here for first or second breakfast. Date: 24 April 2013Place: Pieros (Region of El Bierzo, Province of León, Castilla y León, Spain)Today started: Cacabelos (Region of El Bierzo, Province of León, Castilla y […]

A little roadwalking on our way into Pieros, but it’s not bad. The morning was beautiful and the road was often flanked by vineyards. We’re looking forward to breakfast, hopefully in the next village! Date: 24 April 2013Place: between Cacabelos and Pieros (Region of El Bierzo, Province of León, Castilla y León, Spain)Today started: Cacabelos (Region of El Bierzo, Province […]

With Cacabelos behind us, we are once more walking in the vineyards of El Bierzo. To me, the vines look particularly eerie in the early morning sun and shadows. They look quite different in the full sun of day. Date: 24 April 2013Place: between Cacabelos and Pieros (Region of El Bierzo, Province of León, Castilla y León, Spain)Today started: Cacabelos […]

A new day dawns and we bid farewell to Cacabelos. We’re way off-schedule in terms of our days and stages, but after a long, beer-aided discussion with our friend Radek last night, I’ve worked out how we can get to Santiago on time to make our plane home. Yesterday was rough, both physically and psychologically, but it’s a shiny new […]