Pilgrims on the Way

Day 13 dawns, the Third Sunday of Easter, and we bid San Bol farewell. Our hospitalero turned off the site’s generator when he left, about 9PM, so it was lights out! We left early enough that the sun was still dawning, throwing a golden light over the Meseta. Our plan is to grab breakfast in Hontana in maybe an hour […]

It was something of a running joke: Eamon loves his flan for dessert! Places with a pilgrim menu or a menú del día would always have more or less the same dessert options: fruit, pastry, or flan. So far as I can recall, Eamon always chose the flan. It usually came in this sort of plastic container, though very occasionally […]

Albergue San Bol is one of the great places on the Camino. Felix the hospitalero made a delicious dinner for us, which we ate in the round dining room under the “beehive”. Eamon and I were joined by German and Irish pilgrims, and eventually Santiago, seen here on the far left. I took numerous photos inside San Bol that evening, […]

Albergue San Bol is on a short spur off the main path. It looks for all the world like a beehive, but I think it was originally some sort of agricultural storage building. It’s run by the local parish in nearby Hontanas. It has 12 beds, and I’m pretty sure that Eamon and I got the last two. In the […]

After what must have been the longest 800m of my life, we finally spotted the little albergue in the middle of nowhere: San Bol. If you look carefully (or, you know, zoom in) you will spot it off to the left in this photo, in the shadow of a lovely grove of trees. As you can tell from the quality […]

It was about a quarter to six when we came upon this second sign for the Albergue San Bol. This was a sign of pure hope. It was slightly more official than the previous sign, and it promised a respite in less than a kilometer! We might even be there by 6:00pm, perhaps in time for the dinner promised by […]

It’s almost 5:30pm, and by my reckoning, Eamon and I should have already arrived at the hypothetical Albergue San Bol. It was at about this point that I resigned myself to sleeping outdoors tonight. If you look carefully, you can see windmills on the horizon. The only question is which of us is Don Quixote, and which of us is […]

Amid the endless rolling green sea of the Meseta, this “sign” for San Bol did nothing to ease my mind about whether or not this place actually existed. Or whether it was actually an albergue and not a road-side breakfast stand. Date: 13 April 2013Place: between Hornillos del Camino and San Bol (Province of Burgos, Castilla y León, Spain)Today started: […]

And thank goodness for that! When this odd little building appeared, I initially feared this might be the isolated “San Bol” albergue of legend, but as it turns out we were only up to the spot marked “Depósito de Agua” on the map below. It did not appear on the map I had to hand, and in the Meseta I […]

The sign as you leave Hornillos del Camino is considerably less friendly than the one when you enter. It seemed an ill omen. Still, we had run out of options, and we were determined to make it to that dot in the middle of nowhere on our map labelled “San Bol” (Fuente Sambol on the map below). Walking in trust. […]