Tentative Itinerary
It is said that no plan survives contact with the enemy1. To this I would add that no plan survives contact with the Camino. Nevertheless, and with some sense of trepidation, I offer here my plan for my “long Camino”. This is a total of 65 days walking (plus a scheduled Zero day in Burgos). Some days are short/half days.
A buffer of several days is built in at the end to account for unexpected Zero days due to fatigue or injury or someplace so spectacular I need to spend a day exploring it.
There are few notes for the Spanish section, as we’ve walked that before and have a vague idea of what to expect.
Place names in CAPITALS have a population of more than 2500. An asterisk (*) following indicates a population of more than 10,000. Place names in bold indicate that I’ve already booked a place to sleep there.
To Begin
| Date | Start | End | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tue, Aug 15, 2023 | SEATTLE | Fly to LYON* | |
| Wed, Aug 16, 2023 | Train | LE PUY-EN-VELAY | Arrive in Lyon. Take train to Le Puy. Arrive in Le Puy and SLEEP. |
| Thu, Aug 17, 2023 | LE PUY-EN-VELAY | LE PUY-EN-VELAY | Zero day: adjusting to time change and exploring Le Puy. Get credencial/stamp in Cathedral. |
The Via Podiensis in France
| Stage | Date | Start | End | KM | Region | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Fri, Aug 18, 2023 | LE PUY-EN-VELAY | Saint-Privat-d’Allier | 23.5 | Velay | Pilgrim Mass begins at 7am, and then it’s out the door and walking! Uphill most of the day, with the descent happening over the last 4km. |
| 2 | Sat, Aug 19, 2023 | Saint-Privat-d’Allier | Saugues | 19.0 | Velay / Margeride | One of the most challenging stages of the whole walk. Down into a river valley, and then back up again. Lunch in Monistrol (bottom of valley) is the last café until Saugues, so stock up on snacks and water. Museum of the Beast in Saugues! |
| 3 | Sun, Aug 20, 2023 | Saugues | Domaine du Sauvage | 19.5 | Margeride | A whole lotta uphill. Domaine du Sauvage is a farm complex in the middle of nowhere (originally a Templar commandery) and MUST be reserved (demi-pension). |
| 4 | Mon, Aug 21, 2023 | Domaine du Sauvage | Aumont-Aubrac | 28.2 | Margeride | Stock up at Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole (lunch), because the next grocery is in Aumont-Aubrac. |
| 5 | Tue, Aug 22, 2023 | Aumont-Aubrac | Nasbinals | 27.3 | Aubrac | No support today. Stock up at Aumont-Aubrac, because the next grocery is in Nasbinals! Nasbinals is the largest town in the Aubrac region, with a population of 525. Long but relatively easy day. |
| 6 | Wed, Aug 23, 2023 | Nasbinals | Saint-Chély- d’Aubrac | 16.5 | Aubrac | No support today. Afternoon descent. |
| 7 | Thu, Aug 24, 2023 | Saint-Chély- d’Aubrac | Saint-Côme-d’Olt | 16.0 | Aubrac | No support today. Stock up at Saint-Chély-d’Aubrac as there is no food available until end of day. A long downhill trek. |
| 8 | Fri, Aug 25, 2023 | Saint-Côme-d’Olt | Estaing | 21.3 | Lot River Valley | Today’s route is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Elevenses in city of ESPALION. |
| 9 | Sat, Aug 26, 2023 | Estaing | Espeyrac | 22.8 | Lot River Valley | Stock up on food and full water in Estaing, as there is NOTHING until Golinhac, which is 14 km into the day. Long, steep morning climb. A late lunch in Golinhac, then a descent into Espeyrac. |
| 10 | Sun, Aug 27, 2023 | Espeyrac | Conques | 12.5 | Lot River Valley | Use caution on steep descent into Conques. With any luck, a half-day to explore Conques. Stay at the abbey. |
| 11 | Mon, Aug 28, 2023 | Conques | Livinhac-le-Haut | 25.8 | Lot River Valley | A strenuous day with a steep morning climb. Late lunch (?) in city of DECAZEVILLE. |
| 12 | Tue, Aug 29, 2023 | Livinhac-le-Haut | FIGEAC* | 24.4 | Quercy | Today’s route is a UNESCO World Heritage site. FIGEAC is the largest city so far. Try to get here early, as there is an Egyptian museum and a Templar Commandery as well as two churches worth visiting. |
| 13 | Wed, Aug 30, 2023 | FIGEAC* | Lacapelle-Marival | 22.8 | Quercy | Climb up to the Causset de Gramat, a limestone plateau, on the GR6. |
| 14 | Thu, Aug 31, 2023 | Lacapelle-Marival | GRAMAT | 24.0 | Quercy | Note that there’s a shortcut along a more traditional route which, if needed, will cut today to 21.6km. In either case, this is an easy walk. |
| 15 | Fri, Sep 01, 2023 | GRAMAT | Rocamadour | 12.4 | Quercy | Short walk, with half a day to explore this ancient Marian shrine. Stock up on food, as there’s nothing tomorrow until Mountfacucon, some 20km into tomorrow’s walk. |
| 16 | Sat, Sep 02, 2023 | Rocamadour | Labastide-Murat | 25.5 | Quercy | Follow the GR46 towards Vers. A sharp ascent out of Rocamadour. No services for the first 20km. Stock up for tomorrow, as there’s nothing. |
| 17 | Sun, Sep 03, 2023 | Labastide-Murat | Vers | 24.2 | Quercy | No services, other than water. Be sure to bring food! |
| 18 | Mon, Sep 04, 2023 | Vers | CAHORS | 16.3 | Quercy | An easy walk, with half a day to explore CAHORS is the largest city of the Quercy region. Old city and domed Romanesque cathedral are not to be missed. |
| 19 | Tue, Sep 05, 2023 | CAHORS | Lascarbanes | 23.5 | Quercy | Short but wicked steep climb out of CAHORS – stairs! This is the last bit of strenuous terrain until the Pyrenees. Not a lot of support today. |
| 20 | Wed, Sep 06, 2023 | Lascarbanes | Lauzerte | 23.8 | Quercy | Montcuq is a good spot for second breakfast / early lunch and has a beautiful Gothic church. |
| 21 | Thu, Sep 07, 2023 | Lauzerte | MOISSAC | 27.1 | Quercy | No food or water after Dufort (mid-day), so pack well. Vespers at abbey. |
| 22 | Fri, Sep 08, 2023 | MOISSAC | Auvillar | 21.5 | Gascony | Along the Garonne Canal. September 8 is the feast of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary. |
| 23 | Sat, Sep 09, 2023 | Auvillar | LECTOURE | 32.8 | Gascony | Long, but lots of towns and villages. LECTOURE Cathedral, Roman museum, thermal spa. |
| 24 | Sun, Sep 10, 2023 | LECTOURE | CONDOM | 32.1 | Gascony | The “Route D’Artagnan”. La Romieu (afternoon) very much worth exploring. CONDOM Cathedral 6pm Mass and blessing. Recommended gear shop here, if anything is needed. On a clear day, you can see the Pyrenees. |
| 25 | Mon, Sep 11, 2023 | CONDOM | Éauze | 33.8 | Gascony | Long but easy. Center of Roman habitation (and ruins). Possible to split stage in two (at Montréal-du-Gers) to take in all of the sites. Not a lot of support today, despite a long string the villages. |
| 26 | Tue, Sep 12, 2023 | Éauze | Nogaro | 21.0 | Gascony | Supply at Nogaro – tomorrow is a big, flat empty. |
| 27 | Wed, Sep 13, 2023 | Nogaro | AIRE-SUR-L’ADOUR | 27.6 | Gascony | A big, flat empty. AIRE-SUR-L’ADOUR has a cathedral and a UNESCO-listed church, Saint-Quitterie. Stock up. |
| 28 | Thu, Sep 14, 2023 | AIRE-SUR-L’ADOUR | Arzacq-Arraziguet | 33.8 | Gascony | First yellow arrows. No food or water before Miramont-Sensacq (mid-day), so pack well. |
| 29 | Fri, Sep 15, 2023 | Arzacq-Arraziguet | Arthez-de-Béarn | 30.2 | Gascony | Pyrenees definitely visible now. No cover. Very little support. |
| 30 | Sat, Sep 16, 2023 | Arthez-de-Béarn | Navarrenx | 31.6 | Gascony | Long but easy. Some hills near the end. |
| 31 | Sun, Sep 17, 2023 | Navarrenx | Aroue | 19.5 | Basque Country | No support – pack food and water. |
| 32 | Mon, Sep 18, 2023 | Aroue | Ostabat-Asme | 24.0 | Basque Country | Three different route options today. Zero support – not even water until Larribar. Large climb near the end of the day. |
| 33 | Tue, Sep 19, 2023 | Ostabat-Asme | Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port | 22.2 | Basque Country | Lots of road walking. |
The Camino Francés in Spain
| Stage | Date | Start | End | KM | Region | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 34 | Wed, Sep 20, 2023 | Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port | Roncesvalles | 26.0 | Basque Country | PYRENEES – stock up as the only support today is in Orisson, about 8km into the day. May need to pre-book Roncesvalles. |
| 35 | Thu, Sep 21, 2023 | Roncesvalles | Zubiri | 21.5 | Navarra | Rough descent into Zubiri. |
| 36 | Fri, Sep 22, 2023 | Zubiri | PAMPLONA* | 22.0 | Navarra | |
| 37 | Sat, Sep 23, 2023 | PAMPLONA* | PUENTE LA REINA | 24.0 | Navarra | |
| 38 | Sun, Sep 24, 2023 | PUENTE LA REINA | ESTELLA* | 22.0 | Navarra | |
| 39 | Mon, Sep 25, 2023 | ESTELLA* | Los Arcos | 22.0 | Navarra | |
| 40 | Tue, Sep 26, 2023 | Los Arcos | LOGROÑO* | 28.0 | La Rioja | Long day |
| 41 | Wed, Sep 27, 2023 | LOGROÑO* | NÁJERA | 31.0 | La Rioja | Another long day |
| 42 | Thu, Sep 28, 2023 | NÁJERA | SANTO DOMINGO de la Calzada | 21.0 | La Rioja | |
| 43 | Fri, Sep 29, 2023 | SANTO DOMINGO de la Calzada | Belorado | 23.0 | Castilla y León | |
| 44 | Sat, Sep 30, 2023 | Belorado | San Juan de Ortega | 24.0 | Castilla y León | |
| 45 | Sun, Oct 01, 2023 | San Juan de Ortega | BURGOS* | 27.5 | Castilla y León / The Meseta | |
| 46 | Mon, Oct 02, 2023 | BURGOS* | BURGOS* | 0.0 | Castilla y León / The Meseta | Zero Day |
| 47 | Tue, Oct 03, 2023 | BURGOS* | Hontanas | 31.5 | Castilla y León / The Meseta | Honestly, all of the stages after Burgos are the vaguest supposition. |
| 48 | Wed, Oct 04, 2023 | Hontanas | Boadilla del Camino | 26.0 | Castilla y León / The Meseta | |
| 49 | Thu, Oct 05, 2023 | Boadilla del Camino | Carrión de los Condes | 25.0 | Castilla y León / The Meseta | Lots of options for stopping places from here to León. |
| 50 | Fri, Oct 06, 2023 | Carrión de los Condes | Moratinos | 31.9 | Castilla y León / The Meseta | October 6 is the feast of Sainte-Foy |
| 51 | Sat, Oct 07, 2023 | Moratinos | El Burgo Ranero | 28.4 | Castilla y León / The Meseta | |
| 52 | Sun, Oct 08, 2023 | El Burgo Ranero | Mansilla de las Mulas | 19.0 | Castilla y León / The Meseta | |
| 53 | Mon, Oct 09, 2023 | Mansilla de las Mulas | LEÓN | 20.0 | Castilla y León / The Meseta | |
| 54 | Tue, Oct 10, 2023 | LEÓN | Villar de Mazarife | 22.0 | Castilla y León / The Meseta | |
| 55 | Wed, Oct 11, 2023 | Villar de Mazarife | ASTORGA | 25.0 | Castilla y León / The Meseta | |
| 56 | Thu, Oct 12, 2023 | ASTORGA | Foncebadón | 27.0 | Castilla y León | October 12 is the Fiesta Nacional de España – Día del Pilar (Feast of Our Lady of the Pillar) |
| 57 | Fri, Oct 13, 2023 | Foncebadón | PONFERRADA* | 29.0 | Castilla y León / El Bierzo | |
| 58 | Sat, Oct 14, 2023 | PONFERRADA* | VILLAFRANCA DEL BIERZO | 28.5 | Castilla y León / El Bierzo | |
| 59 | Sun, Oct 15, 2023 | VILLAFRANCA DEL BIERZO | La Faba | 23.0 | Galicia | |
| 60 | Mon, Oct 16, 2023 | La Faba | Triacastela | 25.5 | Galicia | If feeling froggy, could make it to Samos for a 35.5km day. |
| 61 | Tue, Oct 17, 2023 | Triacastela | Samos | 10.0 | Galicia | A very short day. Potentially skipping Samos would save a day. |
| 62 | Wed, Oct 18, 2023 | Samos | Morgade | 23.5 | Galicia | |
| 63 | Thu, Oct 19, 2023 | Morgade | Ligonde | 26.0 | Galicia | |
| 64 | Fri, Oct 20, 2023 | Ligonde | MELIDE | 24.0 | Galicia | |
| 65 | Sat, Oct 21, 2023 | MELIDE | Brea | 30.0 | Galicia | |
| 66 | Sun, Oct 22, 2023 | Brea | SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA* | 25.5 | Galicia |
Home Again
| Date | Start | End | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mon, Oct 23, 2023 | SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA* | SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA* | These days are reserved for injury or additional rest days. If I don’t use them up earlier in the trip, I hope to spend at least a couple of days in Santiago. |
| Tue, Oct 24, 2023 | |||
| Wed, Oct 25, 2023 | |||
| Thu, Oct 26, 2023 | |||
| Fri, Oct 27, 2023 | SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA* | fly to DUBLIN*, then BOSTON*, then home | I have a 17 hour layover in Dublin on a Friday night. What could possibly go wrong? |
TOTAL DISTANCE: 1,579 km / 980 miles (give or take)
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I’ve been looking up the towns and villages you mention on Wikipedia as you travelled through France. I will probably continue to do it now that you are in Spain. Two things. 1. The Wikipedia maps seem to show you much closer to the Bay of Biscay than the map accompanying this Camino. 2. The English Wikipedia entries for most of these towns and villages are woefully inadequate and could use some additions by a good writer who had visited. Some could even use photos.
Hmm… might be something I can do when I get back home.