Via Podiensis: a Camino in a Day

Last night’s dinner in the seminary refectory was my first real chance to sit down and talk with French pilgrims. Well, I say “talk” but we probably only had fifty words in common between two languages and the six of us. None of them are going to be on the trail for more than two weeks, and some for considerably less.

Today’s pilgrim Mass was slightly shorter than yesterday. I expect this is due to the anticipated heat. It was nevertheless a beautiful experience, and at the end we pilgrims literally descended down a staircase that opens up in the middle of the nave. The stairs lead down to the Camino.

Ran into three Australians coming out of the cathedral, but they are taking shorter days. In fact, they ducked into the first café we came to, so I walked on. My goal was to get to today’s gîte before the worst of the heat set in this afternoon.

Once we left Le Puy, there was a strenuous uphill for several kilometers. Either I’m in better shape than I expected, or there are a lot of folks who were not worried about the coming temperature. It’s just weird to pass people walking who are maybe half my age. This is a far cry from my first Camino, ten years ago. On that one, I don’t think I passed anybody during the first week of walking.

Of course, there are plenty of pilgrims still passing me up as well!

The Camino wends its way along a dirt and gravel farm road through fields dotted with trees. Why is it wherever the Camino goes, it always smells vaguely of cow?

I confess I was slightly worried about the route markings. Would I be as alert for a red and white blaze as I was for the yellow arrows? It turns out that they are actually very good, and they are occasionally augmented by signs warning you to stay on the marked route.

Reached a quaint farming village at about 9:30. It was here that our lovely dirt road became asphalt. First 6 km down in an hour 15 minutes. Not bad. Once we were through the village, we were back to dirt and gravel.

Parts of this morning definitely remind me of the Camino Primitivo, in that often the shortest distance between two points is around a deep valley. On the other hand, unlike the Primitivo, there are public toilets. That’s new. And most welcome.

In fact, there was a stretch where I was very much reminded of the crest of the Hospitales, but then some of it was just a dirt road cruise. 

First church visit and first second breakfast in Saint-Christophe-sur-Dolaison. it seems appropriate that the first stop on this Camino is to visit the church of Saint Christopher, the patron saint of travelers. I arrived at about 10:25 and left at about 10:45. This is pretty close to the halfway point for the day, so I made pretty decent time.

Then back to roadwalking through several small villages with suspiciously similar names. And then, without warning, a sharp turn in the path becomes rough dirt across kilometers of open and exposed prairie land. Where had all the trees suddenly gone? I was very grateful for my umbrella, though it was hot enough at this point that I could feel the heat rising from the ground.

Arrived in Montbonnet at about 12:30 and prayed, rested, and recovered a while in the beautiful chapel of Saint Roche there. There were a lovely group of third order Dominicans ministering to the pilgrims here and re-supplying them with water. This was also the place where I zipped off the pant legs of my hiking pants and slathered my lily white legs with SPF 100.

Months ago, in the original plan, this village was to be my stopping point for today. Under the current plan, I’m walking another 8 km to Saint-Privat-d’Allier. Today me was not happy with this decision, but tomorrow me will thank me for it.

There was some rough forested country next, and I was starting to think that this was all of the Camino trains rolled into one day. Then we hit a steep, rocky descent for the last kilometer. It was like walking down into Zubiri all over again. It was easily the longest kilometer of the day.

Made it safely to my gîte in Saint-Privat-d’Allier at about 2:30, which was closer to my morning plan than I had any right to expect. In fact, it was about a half an hour before the gîte even opened! I think that’s some kind of record for me.

After the usual shower and laundry, I headed over to the parish church, dedicated to Saint Privat, a third century martyr.

It may have been an elegant Romanesque church at some point, but the restorers made some… interesting choices.

Among other things, the tabernacle was removed to the south transept, which has been made into a dark and shabby Eucharistic chapel. 

Regardless of the surroundings, it’s still Jesus, so I  prayed there a while.

The whole place is a bit of a mystery.

Note: wifi is slightly dodgy, and I’m having issues uploading many of today’s photos, as well as the video I took of the Le Puy Cathedral stairs.

Date: 18 August 2023

Place: Saint-Privat-d’Allier

Today started: Le Puy-en-Velay

Today’s Photos!