Via Podiensis: After the Walk
I made my first visit to the Cathedral this morning, attending the 9:30 Mass. it wasn’t very crowded, as most pilgrims attend the evening pilgrim Mass rather than one of the early morning ones.
In addition to the Spanish celebrant, the Mass was concelebrated by two priests from the Archdiocese of Portland. It was odd to hear parts of the Eucharistic prayer in English after all this time.
At the conclusion of the Mass, the tiraboleiros swung the Botafumeiro. This is a thurible the size of a child, which has been swung from the ceiling of the cathedral since medieval times. Apparently this was a somewhat common thing for pilgrimage churches during the high middle ages, but Santiago is the only cathedral that kept the custom.
The current Botafumeiro was made in the mid 19th century. I believe it is a replica of the 16th century model that Napoleon stole and melted down.
After Mass, I prayed in the crypt at the tomb of the Apostle for the intentions entrusted to me on this Camino.
My mind flashed to many of the places where I had offered these prayers: from grand cathedrals and abbeys to little village churches, even to the albergues and cafés where I sometimes prayed morning or evening prayer. All of them leading, step by ragged step, to this time and this place.
I have said it before, but it bears repeating. I am convinced that Saint James watches over and intercedes for every pilgrim on the route.
And then, it was on to the necessary logistical things. A late breakfast, followed by some clothes shopping. I basically needed to launder all of my clothes including my fleece, but it was much too cold to be out without layers, so I headed off to buy a sweater so I would have something to wear while I washed my fleece.
This proved to be more difficult than you might imagine. I’m not the sort of person who is comfortable spending a lot of money on clothes for myself. And while almost everything in Spain is ridiculously cheaper than it is in the United States, clothes are not part of that equation.
After a fair bit of hemming and hawing, I bought a decent sweater. I’d be under budget on this Camino if I didn’t keep buying clothes.
Then, freshly showered (again) and dressed in my new finest, I went down to the laundromat and washed everything else.
Along the way, I also tried to sit down and start to compile some of my thoughts about this pilgrimage. There is so much. I’m sure it will take me years to unpack, but I made a good start on a surface level summary at any rate. I will probably post that tomorrow.
It rained most of the day, though never really more than a heavy drizzle. I noticed that the merchants were doing a brisk trade in umbrellas to pilgrims.
As of posting this, it’s just past 4:30 PM. The rest of my day will be spent in exploring the city and visiting any number of the myriad churches here in Santiago de Compostela.
Date: 24 October 2023
Place: Santiago de Compostela
Today’s Photos!
