Via Podiensis: Crossing the Mud Meridian 

I had quite the adventure trying to find a place for dinner last night. I was staying in the Gîte Communal, so there was no dinner there. And it turns out that nearly every restaurant in town is closed on Mondays. I ended up going to a small hotel restaurant. The food was out-of-this-world fantastic, but it definitely put a dent in the budget. 

As I was finishing up, the thunderstorm that had been brewing for hours finally broke. It was spectacular! The air temperature dropped probably twenty degrees, The wind was ferocious, and the rain pelted down. It made getting back to the gîte an adventure. 

It continued through most of the night. 

Since today was to be a shorter day – just a little over 21 km – I slept in past six. After yesterday, there was just no way I was going to do another long stage today. I have a couple of moderate stages today and tomorrow before some longer stages later in the week.

It does mean, though, that I said farewell to my friend Jacopo this morning. He is pressed for time and must walk longer stages. I will miss our talks and his sense of humour. 

After a hearty breakfast and some additional dawdling, I finally left the gîte just before 8 AM. It was light outside. That’s new. It was cooler than it has been in days, and the sky was overcast. I had my poncho ready in the side pocket of my backpack just in case the storm returned. In any case, by 9 AM, all threat of rain had receded.

I picked up the Camino trail markers near the Cathedral, and I was soon on my way out of town. In just over a kilometer, I was back to dirt trail through a woodland tunnel. Unlike previous days, this came with an added bonus: mud! Fortunately, it was generally easy to avoid the worst of it. Having said that, I had a couple of slips, though no falls. 

I had been under the impression that I entered the region of Gascony some days ago, but as I crossed a highway this morning I swear I saw a sign welcoming me to Gascony. I was not quite awake enough to get a photo, though. Anyway, I’m pretty sure I’m in Gascony. But maybe not.

As per usual for the past few days, the Camino transitioned smoothly throughout the day from grass to gravel to dirt to asphalt, in forest and through fields and vineyards.

I passed a few scattered houses and farmsteads, but nothing that rose to the level of a village. 

Everywhere, there was evidence of last night’s storm. There was the mud, of course, but also in the wooded areas branches had been knocked down across the path. I even saw massive downed branches blocking roads.

On some of the forest paths, it’s clear the path itself had become kind of stream overnight, sweeping great piles of forest debris to its margins, or, worse, depositing them in piles that looked like waves across the path at regular intervals.

In some places, the choice was to walk through the mud or the wet grass by the side of the path. One thing I didn’t want was wet shoes; this is the one thing that is sure to give me blisters. But trekking through the mud isn’t exactly optimal, either. It sticks to everything, and there’s always a chance of slipping and falling. There was, however, very little in the way of puddles or other standing water. The heat wave of the previous months had made the ground good and thirsty.

All in all, progress was not nearly as fast as I had hoped. On the other hand, it was definitely not hot, for which I was very thankful.

I passed by fields of corn, towering over my head. And, for the first time in at least a week, cows!

About 9:15 AM, I passed my first named village of the day, Riguet. I counted perhaps six buildings, all houses except one gîte.

I’ve seen many more pilgrims on the road today, possibly because I started my day in daylight. This came in handy shortly after Riguet, when I missed a trail marker and started heading off in the wrong direction. I was soon set right by the hooting and hollering of pilgrims behind me.

At one point, I passed a giant sign in the middle of nowhere reminding me that I was still in the land of D’Artagnan (and some other famous personages).

I entered the village of Manciet at about 10:10 AM, just a little later than I anticipated. This village was more or less my midpoint for the day.

Manciet has an arena for, well, not exactly bullfighting, more like bull dancing. The sport is called Course Landaise, and it seems to involve running beside and dodging the bulls in an arena.

I made a visit to the local church, but the doors were locked. Instead, there was a little side door for pilgrims which essentially lead to something that looked like a cry room. I could view a part of the inside of the church, but couldn’t actually get into it. It seemed well appointed, but I couldn’t see much of it except the sanctuary area. I prayed here for the intentions of my Camino, and then moved on.

After the village, it was some shoulder of the highway walking. Not my favorite. Fortunately, I Camino soon turned off onto a much smaller road past trees and fields, as well as many ponds. I saw a lot of waterfowl in this stretch. Mostly they were ducks, but I also saw a pair of swans and even a heron. This region is famous for its ducks, and I have eaten duck in one form or another in many meals over the past few days. Including a pizza for lunch today. Those who know me know: I love me some duck.

At just before 11 AM, the Camino finally left the road to follow a little dirt path parallel to the road for a while before it struck out into the woods and fields. For a long time, the trail was a dirt or grass path winding its way through acres of vineyards.

The clouds had returned by now, in the sky was once more completely overcast.

The vineyards gave way to pasture land, with some mighty handsome looking horses grazing on the grass, before the Camino returned once more to the woods.

About this time I came upon the isolated little chapel of Saint Jean Baptiste. It is all that remains of a Hospitaller Commandery and pilgrim hostel known as Hôpital Sainte-Christe. 

The interior is a little rustic, but the design is dignified and well executed. It is a quiet and prayerful place, obviously well loved and maintained.

I spent a moment in prayer here before continuing on through the woods.

The Camino continue to fluctuate between woods and farms, vineyards and pastures. I was walking a great deal slower than yesterday, and at some point I began to realize that I wouldn’t make my destination by noon.

At 12:14 PM, I crossed the Greenwich meridian. Or, at least, I passed a sign that said I did. I’ve flown across it any number of times. I was even in a car that drove across it once or twice. But I think this is the first time I’ve ever walked across it.

Shortly thereafter, I began roadwalking past some very lovely old homes. I wasn’t quite sure if this was a dispersed village or a suburb.

Just before town, I ran into Jacopo snacking on a bench. We shared some peanuts and continued walking together. At 12:55 PM, we walked into the village of Nogaro.

Fifteen minutes later I was sitting inside the 11th century church of Saint-Nicolas and Jacopo was on the way to his next destination.

After sitting in the church in a daze for some time, seeing nothing, I decided I really should get some lunch, especially considering I hadn’t eaten second breakfast. So I went across the street and ordered a pizza. It had duck on it. I absolutely devoured it.

Checked in to the Gîte Communal and showered. Skipped laundry today, as rain threatens, and I’m afraid my clothes won’t dry if it does. Now off to the grocery to pick up some supplies, and then back to the center of town to check out the church and whatever else there might be. 

Date: 12 September 2023

Place: Nogaro 

Today started: Éauze 

Today’s Photos!