Via Podiensis: in the Shadow of the Pyrénées

17 September 2023 Thom Pilgrim Reports, Via Podiensis

A bit of a lazy start today, but today’s stage is listed as only 19.5 km, so I wasn’t bothered about it. I finally left the gîte about 6:40. The most treacherous part was going down the building’s crazy stone stairs.

Quite cool this morning.

The Camino exited town through one of the remaining gatehouses in the ramparts. From a plaque located here, I learned that the real D’Artagnan’s older brother was military governor here for several years, and the character that Porthos is based on actually retired here.

The Camino crosses the arched bridge over the River Oloron that I saw yesterday. On the bridge, I took one last photo of the ramparts of this great town. I initially had some trouble finding the trail markers on the other side of the bridge, but once I managed to find the first one, the rest were easy. It was walking on sidewalks. The street lights ended pretty quickly after that, and I had to get my flashlight out.

It didn’t last too long. The Camino soon moved through a suburban neighborhood that was well lit.

Eventually, I was following a two-lane road through open countryside but still on a sidewalk.

Something I was ruminating about this morning: for the last two weeks or so, it’s been very difficult to find a Mass. And when I have, I hear stories that the priest is covering for 10 or 12 churches within one giant combined parish, sometimes stretching 100 km. And yet, the church in Navarrenx last night has two fairly young priests. I’m pretty sure I’ve crossed into a new diocese, but could the number of vocations really be so radically different in adjoining regions? And if so, why? I don’t know, but I think it’s worth investigating, particularly considering the vocations crisis we continue to have in my home archdiocese.

About 7:10 AM, I entered a new village with some very impressive large and beautiful old houses, mansions even. My map says this is Sahorès, although if there was a sign I missed it.

I was soon out of the village, and now roadwalking a smaller road on the side of a hill in the semi-darkness. The Camino wound its way through forested areas and tiny villages with the same atypically large houses.

I tried to visit the impressive looking in village church in Castetnau-Camblong, but of course at this time of the morning it was locked. I’m learning that the churches that are open during the day are generally unlocked at about 8 AM.

As the sun rose, I continued roadwalking through pleasant suburban streets, though off to my right there would often be stretches of forest and meadow. I suspect a lot of these large houses belong to people who have retired from city life to the countryside. In one driveway, I saw wrapped pallets of cut firewood.

Inevitably, the Camino took a turn, and I was now on a gravel road amidst the usual rotation of cornfields, meadows, and forests.

I was definitely moving much slower than a usual morning – dawdling, even. I think that’s mostly to do with knowing that I have a very short day today, but also at least in part because my legs are tired after a week or more of 30+ km days.

Just after 8, the Camino took a sharp turn onto an asphalt road, and the terrain was mostly forest for a good long while, with occasional breaks for adjacent hillside meadows. I saw plenty of grazing sheep and horses, but no cows.

First pilgrim of the day passed me just as I was stepping onto the road.

Eventually, it was back to gravel through the woods.

At one point, the Camino emerged onto a glorious hilly terrain. You could clearly see the Pyrénées now dominating the horizon. It kind of takes my breath away.

The Camino definitively emerged into farm and pasture land about 9 AM. It was here and I saw my first cows of the day. And… Wait for it… Cornfields.

I stopped in the little village of Lacorne about 9:10 for an Orangina and some sustenance.

After this, it was a roadwalking primarily through cornfields. Have I mentioned my feet are getting very tired of roadwalking? But when the vistas would open up, and I would see the mountains, it would make my heart soar. And the weather was perfect for walking, cool and cloudy.

Crossing a long bridge, I chanced to see someone flyfishing in the river below. It looked absolutely peaceful. I’m not sure I have the patience for it.

The rest of today’s walk was up-and-down hills and valleys, mostly through pasture land. It afforded some additional spectacular views of the mountains in the distance. Also: I saw my first signs in Basque today.

I need a rest. Twice today I’ve taken wrong turns that combined have added a couple of kilometers to my day. Add that to my slowness today, and I’m pretty sure I need to take a day off.

Tonight I’m staying in a lovely gîte communal in the village of Aroue in Basque country, where everything is closed on Sundays.