Via Podiensis: Monsters

Woke up early, much to my surprise, but it meant that I was packed and ready to go in plenty of time to pray lauds before breakfast began at 6:45. 

Had my first communal breakfast at a gîte and learned some things. In France (or, perhaps, in this region of France) at breakfast coffee comes in bowls. I heartily approve of this custom.

Left about a quarter after seven and began walking uphill in the cool morning air. Neither of those two things would last long. Oh, the transition began innocently enough to an easy flat sandy path, but after a brief stint roadwalking, I began a difficult descent down a narrow path full of rocks and boulders through forest and bramble.

After crossing a tiny stream on a bridge of rough planks, the Way climbed steeply for a kilometer or so before the path more or less leveled out and veered into a wonderfully fragrant pine forest. 

With all the crazy ups and downs, I was acutely aware of the tension between the need to pace myself for the rough terrain that would characterize the entire day while still being mindful of the fact that I had to finish as early as possible to escape the afternoon heat. 

The path ran parallel to an asphalt road for a while, joining up with it on stretches before diving back into the forest. 

Eventually I arrived at Rochegude, a village dominated by the ruins of a castle that once marked the border between the regions of Velay and Margeride. The 12th century castle chapel of Saint Jacques remains intact. The whole site offers a commanding view of the valley below.

And then, of course, the scramble down into that valley began through a forest of pine and beech trees. I would not have wanted to do it without trekking poles. There were multiple forking paths, and sometimes the markings were not entirely clear.

Eventually I reached the charming village of Pratclaux. After the brief bliss of walking across flat terrain for a kilometer or so through beautiful countryside reminiscent of my imaginings of Middle Earth, the rocky descent into the valley resumed.

The last little bit into town was on an asphalt road. Given my dislike of walking on asphalt, it was nevertheless a welcome relief for my calves and knees.

The little town of Monistrol-d’Allier straddles the Allier river. The bridge was designed by Gustave Eiffel, whose slightly more famous tower was constructed the following year in Paris.

It was time to take stock. It was 9:30 in the morning, the temperature was already over 70° and rapidly climbing, and it was time for second breakfast. I popped into a café for a Coca-Cola and half a sandwich. Ham, cheese, lettuce, tomato on a thin baguette. It was perfect.

After a quick side trip to pray in the 12th century gem that is the church of Saint Pierre, with its medieval reclining statue of Saint Mary Magdalene (more on that later), it was time to put on sunscreen and get back to it.

Now it was just 12 km to Saugues and the end of the day. Unfortunately, it was up the wicked steep other side of the valley, and the temperature was climbing quickly. One consolation was that much of it was under tree cover.

Partway up the slope, I came to the magnificent grotto of Saint Mary Magdalene. This natural grotto was transformed into a chapel in the 17th century, and it is truly a place of astonishing beauty and power. The original statue of the Saint was moved down to Saint Pierre’s at some point, and there’s a modern version of it in the grotto.

At this point it was pant legs zipped off, more sunscreen slathered on, and umbrella attached. I refilled both water bottles at the little farmstead on a level area further up the slope. In fact, I refilled them both three times more during the day.

I’m not saying that this was the most difficult hill I’ve ever climbed, but it’s definitely in the top three.

Eventually, the slope lessened and the hardscrabble path gave way to asphalt road with no shade whatsoever. I was very glad for my umbrella. Even so, sunscreen was irrelevant: it sweat off nearly as fast as I could apply it.

Other than a couple of brief detours through some beautiful pasture land, the rest of the day was road walking in the open. Final descent into town was down a rough gravel path/road that crossed a busy highway and miraculously became smooth asphalt. 

The key to today’s walk has been a combination of faith, tenacity, and good water management.

I arrived in Saugues at about 2:15. The air temperature was 89°. Of course, the gîte didn’t open until 3:30, but at least there was someplace to wait inside. I ate the other half of my sandwich. 

So it turns out that Saugues is not pronounced how you would think: that’s a hard “G” sound at the end. It sounds like “so good” minus the “ood”.

This post is already too long, and the town of Saugues probably requires its own separate blog post. A lovely little place. Let me sum up briefly.

There are two very different churches in town, each beautiful in their own way. The church of Saint Menard, which contains the relics of a local saint, Benildus, is an enormous Romanesque masterpiece. The chapel of the penitents, meanwhile, is relatively tiny but features in astonishing Baroque altar. I spent a bit of time in each.

And then there is the matter of the Beast. If you want to go down a rabbit hole of historical weirdness, look up the Beast of Gévaudan. Was it a wolf or a pack of wolves? An escaped lion from a nobleman’s estate? A remnant dire wolf? A werewolf? Something else entirely?

Anyway, there is a very kitschy museum here with life-size dioramas depicting the story. It was definitely a fun time.

And then there is a defensive tower dating from the Hundred Years War in the middle of the town.

Finally, I have gone from poor Wi-Fi to no Wi-Fi at all. My attempts to upload photos and videos has been sketchy at best. I will likely add more to this post when I have better connectivity.

Date: 19 August 2023

Place: Saugues

Today started: Saint-Privat-d’Allier

Today’s Photos!